On Christmas Traditions from Mexico.....

There is nothing that fills us with more nostalgia or pride than the way Christmas is celebrated in our beloved Mexico. The variety of traditions which are so complete and satisfying, filling all of your senses completely, from the visual to the tactile, the sounds and most importantly the flavors of the season that many are transported back to childhood or a particular geographical location simply by a certain aroma which floats our way....

It would take much time and blog space to fully describe all of the traditions associated with this time of year, since every region has their own particular way of representing this most important celebratory time (although, Easter is the most religious time of year...), Christmas due to Mexico's long standing devotional ties to Catholicism and all things religious, ties the physical to the spiritual while bringing in some Aztec, Mayan or other traditions together as well... In some regions of the country where we've been able to maintain the Indian costumes, you can see these traditions represented, for instance in Merida, Yucatan or the towns surrounding Mexico City and Puebla, there are so many different descendants of the original settlers that they've managed to remain within the old and new worlds in such a way that is completely mystifying and amazing. We also have the traditions from Spain to include so you can see how rich this season can be for us.

Before we delve into the nitty-gritty culinary traditions, let me say that our country has contributed two of the most important details that conform this Christmas Season: Turkey and Poinsettias or La Flor de la Nochebuena (Flower of the Holy Night) which was also sacred in pre-Columbian times. They called it Cuetlaxochitl (leather petals) and considered it sacred to warriors who died in battle and who, as hummingbirds and butterflies, would return to earth to sip its nectar. Of course this only adds to the list of other items that we've contributed to the world, but since we're focusing our attention on the season at hand, we'll start here, ok?

Let me also say that if you're fortunate enough to find yourself within Mexico at Christmas time you are indeed a fortunate soul. Mexico City is truly elevated into the heights of even more beauty during this time and the foods that can be found there are incredible!!!! But each area has it's own, like in Puerto Vallarta in the state of Jalisco (one of the most florid and rich states around with incomparable food, sounds and sights) I can remember making the procession to celebrate the official kick-off to the Christmas Season on Dec. 12th which is our Lady of Guadalupe's Day, with candlelit walks all along the ocean boardwalk (amazingly beautiful) done by all the unions, businesses and groups in town who end up at the Cathedral (Downtown in front of the square by the ocean) with our Lady's crown on top, to sing "Las Mananitas" to Her accompanied by Mariachi's at midnight..... later, you stay in the area since the square and surrounding restaurants set up tables on sidewalks and open their doors to offer local food specialties to everyone! This is just the start of the season's celebrations which are then open to the "Posadas" or "Pastorelas" which recreate the search for lodging done by the Holy Family (with a real Holy Family making the trip, sometimes with an actual donkey) through song and by knocking on house doors until being welcomed at the last home where a party awaits with popular foods like: tamales (chicken, beef, rajas de chile, pineapple, cinnamon, etc), pinatas, paper flags hung above your head, "ponche" (a dried fruit, alcohol spiced punch), "atole", (a maiz based hot drink with fruit and spices), traditional sweets, "Bunuelos de Viento" (Rosettes, flour fritters with sugar and cinnamon), and every family's special dishes for the occasion with lots to drink and eat, everything culminating until Christmas Eve and midnight mass.

For the most part you will see Nativity Scenes in every home but lately the presence of Christmas Trees has become a custom as well, yet the "Baby Jesus" is the one bringing the gifts and not Santa Claus, while on Jan. 6th, "Dia de los Santos Reyes" or Holy King's Day (the Magi) are the ones that leave nuts and small toys in a child's shoes which are left by the door. You have a "Rosca de Reyes" or King's Bread filled with candied fruit and nuts on a rich egg bread crown where a Baby Jesus is hidden and the lucky (or unlucky) person who finds him (you need to be careful or the loss of a tooth could occur...) has to hold the final party of the season on February 20th. He is also responsible for providing the christening dress for the infant Jesus. El Dia de la Candelaria, also known as the Day of Purification, is when, the obligatory forty days after his birth, Mary and Joseph take their new babe to the Temple to be blessed. The winter Holidays are finally over... but watch out for Easter and the rest of the year where many more celebrations await!

But we said we'd talk about the foods of the season, so here are some we love and try to include in our season's celebrations....

My guys aren't big on turkey, but we've been known to make "Pavo en Mole" (Turkey in Mole Sauce) which is lovely. The names comes from the Nahuatl (is a group of related languages and dialects of the Nahuan,traditionally called "Aztecan". Collectively they are spoken by an estimated 1.5 million people, most of whom live in Central Mexico. All Nahuan languages are indigenous to Mesoamerica and are very present today. Mole means "sauce made from many chiles, a concoction". In contemporary Mexico, the term is used for a number of sauces, some quite dissimilar to one another, including black, red, yellow, colorado, green, almendrado, and pipian, and while this is an elaborate sauce to complete, once it's done it has many applications.

Totol de Nochebuena (Christmas Stuffed Turkey)- Marinate the turkey with an ancho chile sauce before stuffing it with a delicious dressing that contains the classic combination of almonds, olives and raisins.

Lomo de Puerco Mechado (Studded Pork Loin)- Pork is always present in Mexico in all types of dishes and this presentation is a visually attractive one with the loin studded with olives, jalapenos, sweet red peppers and almonds which when sliced, show the colors of the season. This can be served alone with any one of the dozens of sauces available.

Lomo Relleno (Stuffed Pork Loin)- The stuffing is a classic one made from all the dried fruits and nuts which have been macerated with tequila or rum or brandy, then wrapped inside the loin which is then seared and braised. Additional stuffing is made to be served as desired.

Ensalada de Nochebuena (Christmas Eve Salad), while this dish is open to interpretation the basic ingredients are usually beets and lettuce but with the addition of "jicama" and any one or all, tropical fruits. A vinaigrette made with olive oil and lemon with a sprinkling of peanuts over top completes it.

Camotes Enmielados (Candied Yams)- These are done with our "piloncillo" (dark sugar cones made from sugar cane) which we also use for many sweets and coffee.

Pechugas Navidenas (Christmas Chicken Breasts), made from Huitlacoche and Flor de Calabaza stuffed chicken breasts (corn smut and squash blossoms) with a sauce made from poblano chile, white wine, white roux and sour cream which are topped with Pomegranate seeds.

Bacalao a la Vizcaina (Codfish Spanish Style), The Spanish made the most of the New World ingredients they found in Mexico, using potatoes, tomatoes and chiles in this dish, in addition to the olives, capers and anchovies they imported from Europe and the salted, dried cod that accompanied them on ocean voyages. The dried cod piled up in the markets at this time of year undergoes an almost magical culinary transformation from a rather unappetizing looking ingredient to an outstanding dish with an inspired combination of flavors. Always present on our Xmas table yet I try to find fresh Cod which imparts a sweeter flavor to this dish.

Torta Azteca (Aztec Torte)- A lasagna type dish made from breaded corn tortillas dipped in green salsa alternating with cheese and chicken layers, covered in more salsa and topped with cheese and sour cream gratin. This can also be done "red" with a guajillo chile based sauce or any one of a number of chile sauces, spiced tomato or even mole.

Ponche Navideno (Holiday Punch)- In addition to being served in Mexican homes during the Christmas and New Year holiday season, hot ponche is sold at night by street vendors who ladle it out from steaming cylindrical vats. I can recall this being "spiked" with pot stems in the mountains of Oaxaca which made for an even more magical recipe...lol.

Rompope (Mexican eggnog)- This beverage was first made by the colonial-era nuns at the Convent of Santa Clara in Puebla, and the Santa Clara brand is still one of the most popular plus containing 96 proof grain alcohol so you know it packs a "punch". These are the same nuns which refined the Mole Poblano and were known for the Chiles en Nogada too. They were recognized as having very sophisticated culinary knowledge.

Polvorones (Mexican Wedding Cookies)- These traditional cookies, which I don't remember seeing in any weddings, are popular year round but made special during Christmas with the addition of orange zest which is a bountiful tropical fruit in winter.

The sweets, breads and candies associated with any Mexican celebration are far too numerous to mention as anyone who has either been in Mexico or walked into a Mexican bakery or mercado can attest. Plus Mexico's tropical climate contributes mightily to more ingredients usually not found in other countries winter celebrations yet in our country, it's in addition to the vast array of foods, spices and condiments available making such dishes possible. Don't forget that Mexico has all climates within it's borders as well, from snow capped mountains of great elevations to the deserts and from the balmy beaches to the plains, all contribute to the diversity of foods available.

These are but a few of the best known Christmas dishes you'll find in Mexico and usually in the major regions towards the center and north. We have so many vegetable dishes that can also be served that once I start it would be hard to finish and I haven't even touched the foods of the South or the Yucatan Peninsula with it's Mayan roots and exotic ingredients, I'd need a lot more space but maybe this can be my next post and I can assure you it will be most fascinating for this region with it's traditions and history is truly a world all onto it's own.

I hope I have given you an idea of the vastness of the Mexican table and some of the applications that our regional ingredients can contribute not just during celebrations but our daily lives. To me it becomes somewhat of a frustration when seeing the limited selection of dishes found outside of the country and the poor representation made of these. Our culinary heritage is very rich, filled with sophisticated and flavorful dishes served with a never ending list of sauces and condiments that trying to find "the real thing" has gotten harder to find for we are so much more than just tacos, burritos and enchiladas. It would be such a loss to permit this culinary heritage to continue to erode so we must do our best to protect it.

Food Shopping in Mexico..... I miss it every week....

One of the things about not living in Mexico that I miss all the time, weekly in fact, has to be being able to go to the markets there. Mexico has the most wonderful markets! It doesn't matter what part of Mexico you happen to be in, I'm sure you'll find a great market there.

But there are some markets that are famous, some for the fruit, others for the fish and some for all sorts of things. Historically, Mexico has always had a way with markets as described by Hernan Cortez when he first arrived in our country.....

When we saw so many cities and villages built in the water and other great towns on dry land we were amazed and said that it was like the enchantments (...) on account of the great towers and cues and buildings rising from the water, and all built of masonry. And some of our soldiers even asked whether the things that we saw were not a dream? (...) I do not know how to describe it, seeing things as we did that had never been heard of or seen before, not even dreamed about.

—Bernal Díaz del Castillo, The Conquest of New Spain

But before I get into this, let me give you a little background you might find interesting.

Aztec (Aztecatl) is the Nahuatl word for "people from Aztlan", it refers exclusively to the Mexica people of Tenochtitlan (now the location of Mexico City), situated on an island in Lake Texcoco, who referred to themselves as Mexica Tenochca or Colhua-Mexica. Sometimes the term also includes the inhabitants of Tenochtitlan's two principal allied city-states, the Acolhuas of Texcoco and the Tepanecs of Tlacopan, who together with the Mexica formed the Aztec Triple Alliance which has also become known as the "Aztec Empire".

But for our conversation about markets, the main marketplace in Tlatelolco, Cortés estimated it was twice the size of the city of Seville with about 60,000 people trading daily. How's that for a large super-store? And these markets, as they do today although not close to the size they were then, still offer everything and anything you could possibly need. Smaller cities have of course, smaller markets but if you visit Mexico City or Guadalajara, the markets are not just enormous in size, being large buildings spanning entire city blocks, but many floors in height as well- some specialize, like La Merced in Mexico City that caters to all sorts of fruits and vegetables. Mexico being blessed with all manner of climates offers a more than wide array of fruits and vegetables year round and La Merced has them all! You'll find ripe fruit ready to eat, vegetables you've only seen in books and prime examples of some of our most beloved ingredients, like:

• Flor de Calabaza (Squash Blossoms)- Very delicate flowers from the zuchinni squash that we love to stuff withcheese, put them in quesadillas, soups and sauces and must be "just picked" or they wilt quickly, and are considered a delicacy.
• Huitlacoche (Corn Smut) - This "mold" might look black and forbidding but it grows on fresh corn and has it's flavor and when made into a paste, makes for wonderful sauces, filling for quesadillas and many other gourmet dishes.
• Ripe Mangoes - If you've ever had a truly ripe mango at it's peak, you'll never taste anything like it, it's fantastic and lends itself to many applications in the kitchen, from ice cream to sauces to drinks and snacks.
• Chiles Poblanos - Sure, you see these in markets here yet they are never as beautiful as they are in Mexico or make you want to make Chiles Rellenos on the spot! A traditional taste we love in soups, stuffed, sauces and snacks with a wonderful flavor of home!
• Hoja de Platano (Banana Leaves)- Wrap meat, poultry or fish, maybe tamales or other things in these lovely natural wrappers and they will impart a subtle flavor, while protecting the fillings and bring increased taste to the party.... a true original.....
• You like chilies? There are hundreds of them. Sweet, smoky, spicy and red hot. Fresh ones, dried ones in every shape and color and for every use. Same goes for teas, nuts and pastes.
  

On every isle and every floor you find items that I'd give my eye teeth for on any day of the week, especially being back in the USA. I miss being able to find fresh, whole foods that have ripened naturally. I miss being able to find all the ingredients I need in ONE place and it doesn't matter what it is I'm looking for, they've got it cheaper, fresh and better. OMG! For anyone that like to cook or eat, this is heaven..... and I've found this to be the case in all of the places we've lived at, from Tijuana in the North, to Puerto Vallarta on the Pacific Coast, to Zacatecaz in the middle, with Mexico City and Puebla in the heart of the country all the way to Merida on the Yucatan Peninsula..... great markets, great food, amazing prices and endless variety year round.

Of course this doesn't mean that you'd be forced to cook just Mexican Food either, we keep a very varied diet, anywhere we happen to be, and I've always been able to cook American, French, Italian, Greek, Thai, Chinese, Spanish.... and all the regional variations within Mexico as well..... you get the idea.... It makes me mad to see so much processed food here in thee USA and green fruits and vegetables being picked and treated chemically (don't even get me started on this or it will turn into a rant).... turns the food tasteless, so sad.

For fish you've got "La Viga" Market that does ONLY fish and seafood.... incredible! Plus in all of these markets you'll find food stalls selling some pretty incredible edibles too. YUM! Fish arrive there daily from every corner of Mexico, seafood too. I still remember this "marisqueria" (seafood restaurant, more a dive really) called "La Marinera" where we'd have amazing fresh seafood cocktails and ceviche.... just tell them what you want in it and you're set to go, makes for a perfect Sunday brunch item, believe me!

Some markets carry "seasonal' dry goods and specialized merchandise like candles and skeleton effigies for the "Day of the Dead" celebrations or herbs and spices for charms and incantations (not just for cooking) or maybe for a herbal medicine poultice. There are pinatas for parties and the candies and toys that go along with it; there is the section of animals and veterinary needs selling baby chicks, ducks and birds; chicken and roosters; feed, cages, food and equipment, then a couple of aisles over you suddenly run into the religious items area where all manner of Catholic figures, Rosary beads, medals, candles and more greet you. At the Merida Municipal Market there is a food stall that makes great Yucatecan specialties smack in the middle between the religious items, the watchmakers, the animal section and the farm implements. Really, we used to stop by and have some "Papadzules" whenever we'd go shopping there.

You can also find clothes, shoes, musical instruments, electronics, jewelry, music, flowers and more..... this is why these are one stop shop places and very popular. Even if you don't buy anything it's worth making the trip. So next time you're in Mexico, don't forget and ask where the local "municipal market" is and visit, maybe even have a bite, look around and take some memories home.

For me, just writing this entry, makes me wish I was still able to shop like this, somehow going to my local A&P or stopping by a Walmart Superstore just doesn't give me the same experience as being down there but maybe it's just me because I still think food tastes so much better in the places that have markets set up like these. What a great excuse to shop in the markets of Livorno, Venice or Rome or even the market stalls in the street markets of Paris and Greece. Or maybe I just like going to the market....... could be......

It's Prime Summer Grilling Season!...... Keeping it Cool....

Summer has come with a vengeance, all over it seems judging by the temperatures reported each night on the evening news, yet with the high temperatures also comes other summer delights like going to the beach, camping, fishing, vacations (or is it staycations now?), fireflies and most of all outside dining.....

Grilling, apart from infusing foods with amazing flavor and aroma is also great when it comes to energy conservations as well as keeping the house cooler and I think we can all appreciate this, right? But it's certainly worth the prep work and having to clean the grill after- just to enjoy great tasting smoky food cooked "a la Quest for Fire" style..... love it!

A warm summer evening and you're having cocktails or a cool drink out on the patio or backyard while you watch the embers of your fire get red hot.... Very primal. I don't know anyone who doesn't like to grill (maybe they don't like the cleanup, but who can complain about the flavors, right?) and savor amazing food that's been given the added touch that only cooking over a "real" fire can bring, very nice. You sit while the food is cooking, keeping an eye on things as they evolve yet everything is nice and easy- side dishes have been prepared in advanced and will only be brought out at the last moment so you just need to supervise the grill while you relax and look forward to the moment when the food is done. A nice time to talk and share, reflect on being able to enjoy this time with friends and family and just "be".......

I've included some easy grilling ideas you might want to try the next time "fire" comes into the conversation. I can tell you that these are family favorites we've enjoyed time and time again. As a matter of fact the Tequila Lime Chicken is never absent from our summer table and everyone just loves it! Jerk Chicken is one of my favorite things in the world and Grilled Trout brings back memories of living in Idyllwild, CA, going to the nearby reservoir and sitting under a pine tree while watching my fishing line and waiting for the trout to "bite"..... that quiet time sharing this amazing place, hearing the Blue jays and the tree branches sway in the breeze, no cars, no city sounds, just the lovely quiet in the middle of the forest. What I wouldn't give to get that time back. Fresh rainbow trout on the grill, nothing better........

So here are some great food choices......

Tequila Lime Chicken.- I wouldn't use good sipping Tequila for this one, use anything you've got on hand, you won't be disappointed! It's amazing!!!!

1/2 cup gold tequila
1 cup freshly squeezed lime juice (5 to 6 limes)"green Mexican Lemons"
1/2 cup freshly squeezed orange juice (2 oranges)
1 tbl chili powder
1 tbl minced fresh jalapeno pepper (1 pepper seeded)- optional
1 tbl minced fresh garlic (3 cloves)
2 tsp kosher salt
1 tsp freshly ground black pepper
1 tbl cilantro leaves, chopped
3 whole (6 split) boneless chicken breasts, skin-on (or your favorite chicken parts)

Combine the tequila, lime juice, orange juice, chili powder, jalapeno pepper, garlic, salt, and pepper in a large bowl. Put the chicken breasts in a large zip lock back and add the marinade. Close really well and place the bag on a dish (to catch spills). Shake now and then. Refrigerate overnight.

Heat a grill with coals and brush the rack with oil to prevent the chicken from sticking. Remove the chicken from the marinade, sprinkle well with salt and pepper, and grill them skin-side down for about 5 min, until nicely browned. Turn the chicken and cook for another 50-60 min, or until just cooked through. Use indirect heat to insure it's done once it's browned by moving it from the fire, close the lid and watch it. Remove from the grill to a plate. Cover tightly with foil and allow to rest for 5 min. Serve hot or at room temperature.
NOTE: I use this marinade for many other things too, like shrimp or meat, except that don't leave it as long or the shrimp will "cook"...... I've also done this in the oven and finished it under the broiler....
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Jerk Chicken.- Another family favorite. Spicy and hot, fire brings out amazing flavors in the chicken,you'll love it!

3 tbl vegetable oil
1 med onion, chopped
3 tbl coriander, ground
3 tbl ginger, ground
3 tbl brown sugar
2 tbl garlic salt
2 tbl onion powder
2 tsp Kosher salt
2 tsp black pepper
2 tsp cinnamon
2 tsp thyme, dry
2 tsp basil, dry
1-3 Habanero Peppers, stem removed and sliced very fine (remove seeds if you want)
1-2 tsp cloves, ground
3 tsp orange juice
3 tsp lime juice
3 tsp sugar
2 tsp Soy sauce
1 whole chicken, cut-up or your choice of parts

Put all the ingredients, except the chicken, into the food processor and pulse until you have a smooth, dark sauce. If it's too thick, you can add more orange or lemon juice or even water, but it should still be thick to stick to the meat.

Put the chicken into a large zip lock back and pour in the marinade. Mix really well, turning it, put on a dish and allow to rest at least overnight to get full favor.

When you're ready to cook get the BBQ ready for indirect grilling (like before), sear the chicken until charred, skin side down then turn and cook 5-10min but then distance it from the direct heat to finish cooking until done. Close the lid of the BBQ. Keep checking so it doesn't burn and should take about 1 hour or so.

Allow to rest for about 15min, covered in foil while you set the table.....
NOTE: You can use this marinade for many other uses as well when grilling a variety of foods from fish and seafood to vegetables.
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Grilled Snapper with Mojo.- A great way to have fresh fish!

8-10 roasted garlic cloves + 3-4 extra cloves
2-3 tbl orange zest
1/4 cup olive oil
1 orange, juiced
1 tbl honey
1 thai chile, seeded and finely chopped (can be serrano or habanero)
1 tsp thyme, fresh + 3-4 fresh thyme sprigs
1/2 tsp Kosher salt

1 whole Red Snapper (or similar fish)
1 lemon, cut in half
1 tsp Greek Oregano

Rinse and pat dry your fish. Rub the fish with olive oil and place the 3-4 garlic cloves, salt and pepper and 3-4 fresh thyme springs inside the fish.

Put the first 8 ingredients into the blender and combine well. Place in a bowl and allow to rest while you make the fish.

Get your BBQ ready and rub the grill with oil to prevent sticking, fish is delicate. Once it's ready, place the fish on the grill and cook for about 4-5 min per side, flip carefully. Once the fish is done, squeeze half a lemon over it and sprinkle with some of the oregano. Serve with the Mojo Sauce on the side.
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Grilled Trout with Garlic-Caper Sauce.- Tender trout done the best way imaginable!

2-3 Fresh Rainbow Trout, cleaned and rinsed. Patted dry
salt & fresh ground pepper
Herbs de Provence (savory, fennel, thyme and basil, dry)
1/4 cup olive oil

Veggies:
2 tbl olive oil
2 tbl butter
1 lb potatoes, peeled and sliced 1/4-1/2 thick
1 med leek, rinsed and sliced thin
2 tsp whole ground mustard
salt & fresh ground pepper

The Sauce:
1/2 cup olive oil
2 tsp capers, choppe
2 tsp shallots, finely minced
1 tbl garlic, chopped
1 tbl chives, chopped
2 tbl Basil leaves, chopped
1 tbl lemon juice

Heat your grill and oil it well. Rub the fish with oil, be generous and the herbs, salt & pepper. Place some of the herbs and salt and pepper inside the fish too. Allow to sit for at least 15 min to concentrate the flavors.

Get the veggies ready by putting oil and butter in a pan, then stir fry the vegetables with salt & pepper until tender and golden brown, over med heat. When done, finish off by adding the mustard and mix well to coat evenly.

To make the sauce, combine the ingredients in a pan and allow to come together, while stirring. Taste and add salt & pepper as needed.

Cook the fish on the grill about 3 min each side, taking care when turning. When done, place some of the veggies on a plate in the center, place the fish over these and finish off with some of the sauce over the fish. Serve.
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Tiramisu.- An easy recipe that's great and very tasty, plus you can make in advance!

6 egg yolks
1 1/4 cup sugar
1 1/4 Mascarpone cheese
1 3/4 whipped cream (whip heavy cream until stiff)
2 12oz packages of Lady Fingers cookies, split in half lengthwise
1/2 cup Rum / Kahlua / Sherry or whatever you'd like
1 cup Espresso coffee, cooled (must be strong)
Unsweetened Cocoa Powder (for finishing)

Put egg yolks and sugar in a glass or metal pan or bowl that will fit on a Bain Marie (water bath). Making sure the bottom of the pan doesn't touch the water. Heat the water and place the bowl on top, lower the heat to the water and beat the eggs and sugar for about 10 min (you can use a hand mixer or whisk). Remove from the heat and continue beating until it thickens and turns a lemon yellow and reaches the "ribbon stage" (when you lift the whisk, the mixture falls in a stream). See the next recipe for another explanation.

Once it's thick, add the Mascarpone and fold in then add the whipped cream, folding well and making sure it's well combined. Set aside.

In a small bowl, add the liquor to the coffee. In a glass dish or serving dish, you will put the lady fingers on the bottom but first you will dip these, one at a time, in the coffee mixture and then place in the dish. Cover the bottom. Spoon half of the cream-egg mixture over the lady fingers, making sure it's even. Cover the cream with another layer of soaked lady fingers and then finish off with another layer of the cream-egg mixture.

Using a fine sieve, put a tablespoon of cocoa powder in the sieve then while hitting the sieve with a spoon, cover the cream-egg mixture evenly with the cocoa powder to finish. Refrigerate so it will be easier to serve, at least 1 hour or so. Enjoy!
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Zabaglione with fresh fruit.- Another wonderful Italian dessert you will enjoy! (Very similar in procedure from the recipe above...)

6 large egg yolks
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 cup Marsala (Jerez or Sherry)
Pinch kosher salt
Fresh berries, for serving, optional (or Frutti de Bosco, mixed berries from the forest)

Bring 1-inch of water to a boil in saucepan set over high heat. Add the egg yolks and sugar to a large glass bowl. Using an electric hand mixer on the highest speed, beat the eggs and sugar until the mixture is thick, pale yellow, and the sugar is completely dissolved, 4 to 5 min. Decrease the mixer speed to low and add the Marsala and salt. Decrease the heat to maintain a simmer and put the bowl atop the saucepan with the boiling water, making sure the bottom of the bowl is not touching the water. Beat the mixture on medium speed, until it is thick, frothy, holds a ribbon.

Place fruit or berries into a large wine glass or dessert dish and spoon the warm mixture onto the fruit and serve immediately or allow to cool slightly.
NOTE: Can be used as a dessert sauce on anything else you'd like: pound cake, cupcakes, etc.
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What can I say? These dishes brought me some lovely memories and will continue to comfort my family every time we have them, they're really worth repeating, you'll see. They are so good they can be for company or just for family and you don't need an excuse to serve them so go ahead and enjoy!

The trout are waiting for the grill and the Tiramisu is in the fridge, it's one of Rene's favorites and he hasn't seen it yet because I hid it at the back of the refrigerator, he'll be delighted and makes him recall the time we spent in Florence and would go to "Il Porcospino", one of our favorite hangouts, a lovely little trattoria across the street from Il Duomo's Medicee Capelle! (you can see the white umbrella's on the left in the photo) Enjoy!

A Noodle Tale......

I love noodles, many of us do. They are supremely versatile, economical (unless you go whole hog into the artisanal world of imported pasta), easy to make, fast cooking and most people like them. What else could you ask from an ingredient....

This nifty and popular food has an impressive pedigree too. Historians have noted several milestones relevant to pasta, none which change the basic characteristics. For example, the works of the 2nd century AD Greek physician Galen mention "homogeneous compounds made up of flour and water." The Jerusalem Talmud records that "itrium", a kind of boiled dough, was common in Palestine from the 3rd to 5th centuries AD. A dictionary compiled by the 9th century Syrian physician and lexicographer Isho bar Ali defines " itriyya" , the Arabic cognate, as "string-like shapes made of semolina and dried before cooking". The geographical text of Muhammad al-Idrisi, compiled for the Norman King of Sicily, Roger II, in 1154 mentions itriyya manufactured and exported from Norman Sicily: "West of Termini there is a delightful settlement called Trabia. Its ever-flowing streams propel a number of mills. Here there are huge buildings in the countryside where they make vast quantities of itriyy which is exported everywhere to Calabria, to Muslim and Christian countries. Very many shiploads are sent".

Itriyya gives rise to "trie" in Italian, signifying long strips such as tagliatelle and trenette. One form of itriyya with a long history is "laganum" (plural lagana), which in Latin refers to a thin sheet of dough, and gives rise to Italian Lasagna. The Chinese people were eating noodles made of millet as long ago as 2000 BC. This has been suggested as Marco Polo importing pasta from China originated with the Macaroni Journal, published by an association of food industries with the goal of promoting the use of pasta in the United States. Marco Polo describes a food similar to "lagana" in his "The Travels of Marco Polo", but he uses a term with which he was already familiar. Lasagna deserves it's very own post so maybe later, ok?

Durum wheat, and thus pasta as it is known today, was introduced by Arabs during their conquest of Sicily in the late 7th century, according to the newsletter of the National Macaroni Manufacturers Association, thus predating Marco Polo's travels to China by about six centuries. In the 1st century BC writings of Horace, were fine sheets of dough which were fried and were an everyday food. Writings in the 2nd century Athenaeus of Naucratis provides a recipe for lagana which he attributes to the 1st century Chrysippus of Tyana: "sheets of dough made of wheat flour and the juice of crushed lettuce, then flavored with spices and deep-fried in oil". An early 5th century cookbook describes a dish called "lagana" that consisted of layers of dough with meat stuffing, a possible ancestor of modern-day Lasagna. But the method of cooking these sheets of dough does not correspond to our modern definition of either a fresh or dry pasta product. The first concrete information concerning pasta products in Italy dates from the thirteenth or fourteenth century.

Okay, enough of the history lesson for today but I thought it bore telling since it clarifies the origins of pasta and the more I delved into the subject, the more I wanted to find out. Funny how ancient travelers contributed so much to our culinary history, no? I've also read we could thank many ancient travel writers for their contributions to this as well, Thomas Jefferson known as being a man of "enlightening" was a gourmet and inventor (among many other things) and he developed one of the earliest pasta machines! He was also an avid Francophile and brought much of the culture, food and general life to the U.S. from his years abroad.

So next time you're cooking up some good 'ol Mac N Cheese you might think of the origins of your comfort food not as a staple from your Mom's kitchen but a world wise dish of international connections. N'est-ce pas? So with this in mind I have come to share some "enlightened" versions of our old comfort food that we can all enjoy. A great base that will serve us well indeed, I'm sure you'll agree they bear no resemblance to the boxed version with that funny powdered cheese-thingy you can find at the old A&P, no sir!

Luxurious Four Cheese Macaroni and Cheese.- When only the very best will do and you want serious comfort food!

3 cups whole milk
4 tbl butter
1 cup onion, finely diced
1 bay leaf
1/4 cup all-purpose flour
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Pinch freshly grated nutmeg
1/4 tsp hot sauce, more to taste
1 3/4 cup Gruyère cheese, coarsely grated
2 cups blue cheese, crumbled
1 lb dried penne rigate pasta
1 tbl finely grated lemon zest
2 cups Monterey Jack, cut into 1/2 inch cubes
1/2 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
2 tbl fresh thyme leaves
1 cup Parmigiano Reggiano, freshly grated
3/4 cup fresh breadcrumbs

Heat the oven to 350F. Put a large pot of well-salted water on to boil. Meanwhile, heat the milk in a small saucepan over med-low heat to just below a simmer, stirring often to prevent scorching. Remove from the heat and cover to keep hot. Melt the butter in a pan over med-low heat. Add the onion and bay leaf. Cook, stirring, until the onion starts to soften, about 5 min.

Add the flour and cook, stirring, for 2 min. Gradually whisk in the hot milk, bring to a simmer, and cook for 10 min, whisking frequently, until thickened and smooth. Season the white sauce with 1 tsp salt, pepper to taste, the nutmeg, and the hot sauce. Remove and discard the bay leaf. Stir in the Gruyère and blue cheese.

Cook the pasta to al dente. Drain and return to the pot. Toss the lemon zest and half of the Monterey Jack into the pasta while it’s still hot; add the cheese sauce and quickly toss to combine. Stir in the parsley and thyme and transfer half of the pasta to a large ca sserole or lasagna pan. Sprinkle with the remaining Monterey Jack and half the Parmigiano; top with the remaining pasta. Sprinkle with the remaining Parmigiano and the breadcrumbs. Bake until bubbly and golden, 50 to 60 min. Let rest for 5 to 10 min before serving.

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Wild Mushroom Macaroni and Cheese.- This is not your Mom's Mac n' Cheese.....

1 1/2 cups sliced crimini mushrooms
1 1/2 cups sliced shitake mushrooms

2 tbl oil or bacon fat
1 1/2 tbl sherry vinegar
3 tbl butter
3 tbl flour
3 cup whole milk, warmed
1/2 cup herb chevre, crumbled
1/2 cup sharp cheddar, shredded
1/2 cup parmigiano reggiano, divided in 2
1 tbl fresh thyme leaves
2 tsp fresh rosemary, minced
1 tsp fresh sage, minced
2-3 tbl white truffle oil, depending on how strong you like it (optional but yes, worth it)
1 tsp crushed red pepper flakes
1/2 cup panko
1 box elbow pasta
kosher salt and fresh cracked black pepper

Preheat oven to 400 F. Place a large pot of water over high heat and cover. Place a large pan with 2 tbl oil or lard over med heat. Once the oil is hot, add the mushrooms to the pan and saute for 7-10 min or until the mushrooms are fully cooked and slightly caramelized. T oss or stir occasionally. Season with a pinch of kosher salt and black pepper then deglaze the pan with sherry vinegar. Allow all of the vinegar to cook out, then remove the mushrooms from the pan and set aside.

Add 4 tbl butter to a med-sized pan over med heat. Once all the butter is melted and hot, whisk in 4 tbl flour. Cook the flour, whisking, for about 30 seconds. Add the thyme, rosemary, sage, and red pepper flakes. Continue stirring and allow the herbs to saute for about another 30 seconds. Slowly pour in the milk while whisking continuously, so there are no lumps. Allow the bechamel to come to a simmer and thicken, stirring. While waiting for the sauce to come to a simmer start the pasta. Liberally salt the water. Add the pasta to the water and cook the pasta for a minute or two less than the suggested time on the box. Once the bechamel has reached a simmer, stir in the chevre, cheddar, half the parmigiano, and truffle oil until all the cheese has melted. Turn off the heat and and taste the sauce for seasonings. Season with salt and pepper as necessary. In small mixing bowl, mix together the panko an d remaining parmigiano reggiano. Strain the pasta immediately once finished cooking. In a mixing bowl, toss the pasta, cheese sauce, and mushrooms together. Pour the macaroni and cheese into a deep glass or ceramic loaf pan and sprinkle the panko/parmigiano mixture evenly across the top. Bake in the upper part of the oven for about 15 to 20 min or until the topping is golden and the cheese sauce is bubbly. Serve hot. Enjoy!

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Mac N Duck.- A sophisticated yet playful take on our old friend, definitely worth the trouble!

Duck Confit (see recipe below)- duck shredded

3 tbl butter
3 tbl flour
3 cup whole milk, warmed
1 cup fontina cheese, shredded (more if needed to your taste)

salt and fresh ground pepper

grated nutmeg, to your taste

1 large onion, sliced fine

1 tsp fresh parsley, chopped

1 tsp fresh chives, chopped

1 tsp fresh tarragon, chopped

1 lb pasta

Duck confit (this is fabulous! save the fat to fry in, especially french fries!!!!!)
3 tbl salt
4 cloves garlic, smashed
1 shallot, peeled and sliced
6 sprigs thyme
Coarsely ground black pepper
4 duck legs with thighs
4 duck wings, trimmed
About 4 cups duck fat

Sprinkle 1 tbl of salt in the bottom of a dish or plastic container large enough to hold the duck pieces in a single layer. Evenly scatter half the garlic, shallots, and thyme in the container. Arrange the duck, skin-side up, over the salt mixture, then sprinkle with the re maining salt, garlic, shallots, and thyme and a little pepper. Cover and refrigerate for 1-2 days.

Preheat the oven to 225 F. Melt the duck fat in a small saucepan. Brush the salt and seasonings off the duck. Arrange the duck pieces in a single snug layer in a high-sided baking dish or ovenproof saucepan. Pour the melted fat over the duck (the duck pieces should be covered by fat) and place the confit in the oven. Cook the confit slowly at a very slow simmer — just an occasional bubble — until the duck is tender and can be easily pulled from the bone, 2-3 hours. Remove the confit from the oven. Cool and store the duck in the fat. (The confit will keep in the refrigerator for several weeks.)
Note: The duck fat can be strained, cooled and reused.

Add butter to a pan over med heat. Once all the butter is melted and hot, whisk in flour. Cook the flour, whisking, for about 30 seconds. Add the parsley, chives and tarragon. Continue stirring and allow the herbs to saute for about another 30 seconds. Slowly pour in the milk while whisking continuously, so there are no lumps. Allow the bechamel to come to a simmer and thicken, stirring. While waiting for the sauce to come to a simmer start the pasta. Liberally salt the water. Add the pasta to the water and cook the pasta for a minute or two less than the suggested time on the box. Once the bechamel has reached a simmer, stir in the cheese until all the cheese has melted. Turn off the heat and and taste the sauce for seasonings. Season with salt and pepper as necessary. Strain the pasta immediately once finished cooking. In a mixing bowl, toss the pasta and cheese sauce together. Pour the macaroni and cheese into a deep glass or ceramic baking pan and bake in the oven for about 15 to 20 min or until the cheese sauce is bubbly. Meanwhile in a pan with some half butter and oil, saute the onion until caramelized, stirring often.

To serve: Top with the shredded duck and more herbs if desired and the caramelized onions.

NOTE: You could also add a crumb topping if you like, as mentioned above.

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Chipotle Chicken Macaroni.- A lovely way to incorporate some extra flavor into this dish!

1 Chicken, cut up

2 cups tomato sauce

1-3 chipotle peppers, canned

2 tbl cilantro leaves, chopped

2-3 garlic cloves

1/2 onion, in quarters

salt and pepper to taste

1-2 tbl sugar

1 cup Oaxaca or Chihuahua Cheese, shredded

1/2 cup green onions, chopped, green parts too

3 tbl butter
3 tbl flour
3 cup whole milk, warmed

Heat oven to 350 F. Spray a baking sheet with spray or line with aluminum foil and place the chicken with salt and pepper on the sheet. Bake in the oven for about 40-50 min. Allow to cool and then shred.

In the blender, put the tomato sauce, chipotle, garlic, onion and blend until smooth. Start with 1 chipotle pepper, taste and then see if you want the other one, if not that's fine. When smooth, taste and add salt and pepper and sugar, cilantro leaves too and blend to combine. In a pan, put the chicken over med-high heat and then add the chipotle tomato sauce and allow to come to temperature, lower the heat and simmer about 15 min. Add the green onions. Turn off heat.

Add butter t o a pan over med heat. Once all the butter is melted and hot, whisk in flour. Cook the flour, whisking, for about 30 seconds. Add salt and pepper. Continue stirring and allow to cook for about another 2-3 minutes. Slowly pour in the milk while whisking continuously, so there are no lumps. Allow the bechamel to come to a simmer and thicken, stirring. While waiting for the sauce to come to a simmer start the pasta. Liberally salt the water. Add the pasta to the water and cook the pasta for a minute or two less than the suggested time on the box. Once the bechamel has reached a simmer, stir in the cheese until all the cheese has melted. Turn off the heat and and taste the sauce for seasonings. Season with salt and pepper as necessary. Strain the pasta immediately once finished cooking. In a mixing bowl, toss the pasta and cheese sauce together. Add the chicken and some of the sauce (to your taste) and mix to combine. Pour the macaroni and cheese into a deep glass or ceramic baking pan and bake in the oven for about 15 to 20 min or until the cheese sauce is bubbly.

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Korean BBQ Mac N Cheese.- Here is a fusion of both cultures that works!

Recipe for Galbi or Korean BBQ in this blog from May 31, under Oriental foods

-including t he greens on the side dishes

3 tbl butter
3 tbl flour
3 cup whole milk, warmed

salt and pepper to taste

1 cup Monterrey Jack or White Cheddar Cheese, shredded

1 lb pasta

Add butter to a pan over med heat. Once all the butter is melted and hot, whisk in flour. Cook the flour, whisking, for about 30 seconds. Add salt and pepper. Continue stirring and allow to cook for about another 2-3 minutes. Slowly pour in the milk while whisking continuously, so there are no lumps. Allow the bechamel to come to a simmer and thicken, stirring. While waiting for the sauce to come to a simmer start the pasta. Liberally salt the water. Add the pasta to the water and cook the pasta for a minute or two less than the suggested time on the box. Once the bechamel has reached a simmer, stir in the cheese until all the cheese has melted. Turn off the heat and and taste the sauce for seasonings. Season with salt and pepper as necessary. Strain the pasta immediately once finished cooking. In a mixing bowl, toss the pasta and cheese sauce together. Add the galbi, some of the greens and some of the sauce (to your taste) and mix to combine. Pour the macaroni and cheese into a deep glass or ceramic baking pan and bake in the oven for about 15 to 20 min or until the cheese sauce is bubbly.

To serve: Have some greens as toppings and to add crunch.

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And just as an extra, our favorite "Lobster Mac"..... for special occasions. You prepare this just like the others following the steps of making a "roux" (butter, flour, milk sauce), then you add a light Mascarpone Cheese so you don't weigh down the lobster; 1/4 cup of Cognac is added (Yes!) and then some VERY lightly cooked lobster pieces (save some to top off at service). I add chopped garlic, finely chopped onion and fresh Tarragon as well. YUM! Amazing!..... (plus much more doable since you don't need a lobster for each person....) I'm sure you're well aware how many ways you can make this, right? Just pick your cheese and any extras you like, topping or not? and let 'er rip..... You can go from simple down home to full out over the top with no stops in between. So very creative and great! So go ahead and create your own masterpiece! Enjoy......

The Wonderful World of Grilled Sandwiches!..... Remember when?

Tiptoeing through memory lane and remembering the "old time" food we used to have and love.....made we want to recreate some of the old classics? Or make some new ones? While there are still some diners around where you can get some of these great favorites, there is no reason why not make them an "at home" treat as well. They're easy to make and everyone loves them, so why not?

Grilled sandwiches can be made in many ways, you can use your BBQ grill which gives them a added flavor from the grill or you can use a pan on the stove or stove top grill- you could even use one of those Foreman Grills that seem to have become so popular lately. I remember my Mother used to have this super heavy electric grill that had interchangeable plates to use for waffles or grilled sandwiches which I would give an eye for.... so retro and great! Panini Grills have also come on the market and will give you grill marks on the bread while toasting the sandwich. I sold my waffle grill in Puebla but any day now I will break down and get a Belgian Waffle Grill..... but for delish Grilled Sandwiches all you really need is a pan and a spatula and you're set! You can make them dry toasted or grilled with butter or oil, your choice....

I just remembered that if any of you have an old toaster oven hidden away in your basement or garage this would be the perfect time to get it out and put it to use. These make more than just toast you know? Open faced sandwiches are easy on these as are grilled cheese sandwiches.... so go dig out your old toaster oven and put it to work!

As far as the bread and fillings you can have the sky's the limit! Whatever you like or you can adhere to the classics each sandwich is known for. I should recommend that the better the bread, the better the toast (we love sourdough or 7 grain) and the addition of cheese always makes it better, especially when it gets "melty"...Ooh! I always add veggies at the end once they're off the heat to give them the added touch of crispy lettuce, onion or whatever.... Look under "labels" on this blog, in the "From France" section and scroll down (click the "older posts" on the bottom) and look at the Croque Monsieur (French version of grilled cheese) for another, more sophisticated way to make these that is just as good.... Yum!

I'll give you some ideas to begin with and you can take it from there, ok? Maybe we could do a revue of classic Diner food while we're in TV Land, that might make for a good post, right? But for now we'll focus on a selection of Grilled Sandwiches..... Went to the movies on Cheap Tuesday and we had great Grilled Reuben Sandwiches (I'd forgotten how much I liked these!) and then I made some great Grilled Tuna Melts so I got to thinking along those lines, so here we go!

Fabulous Grilled Tuna Bacon Melt Sandwiches.- A blast from the past that is very tasty and satisfying. Makes 4 sandwiches

Sliced bread - your favorite kind (I used sourdough)
2 cans of tuna, in water, drained
3 tbl flour
3 tbl butter, margarine or oil
1 cup of milk (or more)
black pepper to taste
1 tbl brown mustard or Dijon
3 slices of bacon, crispy and cut in small pieces
1 cup Cheddar cheese, shredded (or your choice of cheese and can use more too)
Lettuce, tomato, red onion slices (optional)
Mayo
Oil or butter

In saucepan melt the 3 tbl of butter and add the flour. Mix and blend well while whisking for 2-3 min to cook the flour, then add the milk and continue whisking until it begins to thicken. (don't add too much milk, it has to be really thick to hold together) Add the mustard and some black pepper until it's thick, about 5 min or so. Add the tuna, bacon and cheese and mix well. Set aside.

Place the bread slices on your work table and spread one side with mustard and the other with Mayo then divide the tuna mix evenly between 4 slices over the mustard side and spread so it will be even. These will be the "bottoms". You can add more cheese on the "tops" if you like. Cover the sandwiches and set aside.

In a large pan either melt 2 tbl of butter over med-high heat or use oil. Make sure the pan is hot before you lay 2 sandwiches on the hot butter or oil. You are toasting the bread so check after about 2 min and insure it doesn't burn. You can add more oil if you need, the toasting should be even on all the bread surface. Once they're done, lift the sandwiches out of the pan with spatula, add more oil, let it heat up and turn the sandwiches and place in the pan to toast.

Once they're done you can serve them or if you're adding the veggies insert them now. Serve them with fries, cole slaw, mashed potatoes or fruit salad.
NOTE: You can use shredded chicken, beef, pork, fish, veggies too. These make great open-faced sandwiches (you only toast the bottoms) or make them into canapes on either toasted bread triangles or crackers, stick under the broiler and you're done! Mmmm.....
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Old Style Montecristo Sandwiches.- One of the classic sandwiches from long ago, I love the contrasts on this one! Reminds me of Sunday mornings at the Plaza in New York!

bread, your choice
mustard to taste and your preferred type
sliced deli ham (or turkey)
gruyere cheese or similar
1 egg
1 tbl milk
touch cinnamon
1/2 tsp vanilla
butter
powdered sugar
jam, your choice too but strawberry is the classic

Spread mustard on bread add ham and cheese (or whatever you decided on); Mix the egg, milk, cinnamon and vanilla in a shallow pan or bowl. Dip the sandwich into the egg mixture and cover both sides with it. Melt the butter in a pan and fry both sides of the sandwich until golden brown and the cheese has melted.

Serve on a plate and sprinkle the powdered sugar on the sandwich by putting the sugar in a fine sieve, place it over the sandwich and hit the sieve with a spoon so the sugar drifts onto the bread.
Add a dollop of jam on the side, slice the sandwich in half and enjoy!
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Here are other variations you can make:

1. Grilled Spinach Pesto and Cheese
2. Grilled Portobello and Roasted Red Pepper
3. Grilled Cheese and Mango Chutney
4. Grilled Chicken and Pineapple
5. Grilled Spinach and Feta Cheese
6. Grilled Chicken and Cilantro Pesto with Roasted Red Peppers
7. Grilled Vegetables and Cheese
8. Grilled Fig, Brie and Prosciutto

All of the above would make fabulous canapes, flatbread or regular pizzas, open faced sandwiches or quesadillas- perfect for game day or entertaining too. I think you get the idea, anything will work as long as you want it to. How much more flexibility could you ask for? You can decide if you want it dry or wet toasted (with butter or oil, my favorite) and depending on your set up can be elaborate or simple.

Here's another blast from my past and maybe from yours too, although I have to admit that it might sound weird to those with a conservative past.... but lots of fun too! Here are some creative ways to grill sandwiches or cook food:

a) The "get down and dirty way" of grilling stuff: wrap the sandwich in waxed paper and iron it with a clothes iron. This really works! And if you don't have nice cooking appliances and you want a no-mess grilled cheese sandwich, it is a great way to cook up some food fast with limited cooking facilities (in a dorm room, traveling or camping for example). You can iron it on your ironing board, or just on a folded towel sitting on your counter. Boy, does this bring back crazy memories!!!!

b) The "mobile cooking solution" from my Boy Scout days (more memories with this too): wrapping your sandwich in wax paper or parchment paper and then tinfoil, and strapping it to your car manifold. There's a whole secret world out there of car cuisine pioneered by hunters and fishermen and used by the Boy Scouts! If you think about it, this is a really green way to cook, since you're using heat that is already being produced anyway. We would mount our food before taking off for a road trip and the food would be done and hot when we arrived! Great or what?

I've really enjoyed this trip down memory lane but now I'm getting ready to make some Patty Melts for dinner along with some Cottage Fried Potatoes! Wow, I can already taste them and my guys are up for them while watching another World Cup game..... Have some Persian Lemon Lemonade all chilled to go along with the sandwiches and a Mango Cobbler for dessert....Oh my! I hope this will make you want to recreate these great options for your family's lunch or dinner and maybe they'll become part of your present instead of being relegated to the past. They're too good to forget, right? Talk soon....