Showing posts with label From France. Show all posts
Showing posts with label From France. Show all posts

Friday, November 4, 2011

Bread Pudding..... Do you know how many kinds you can have?

Bread Pudding.... What does it mean to you? Did you know that most cultures on this earth have their own version of this popular comfort food? From Creole to French, Italian to Mexican and Spain, everyone developed a tasty way to deal with left-over hard bread. Bread has always been considered "the staff of life" so cultures of old showed its respect by never throwing out the bread, instead transforming it into everything from salad, like the Italian Panzanella, to soup as is used in Spain with Gazpacho and their version of the pudding called "Migas".... Mexico has the ever popular "Capirotada" which is a traditional dish containing both sweet and savory flavors for the holidays.... in other words, and in all languages, the trick is to conserve, recycle, make do and fix it up but under no circumstances is it a good idea to throw food out.

Bread Pudding, while most people think of it like a dessert, doesn't have to be sweet at all, but since we're starting with the sweet let's talk about it a while. Using a thick egg based custard base, flavored with cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger and allspice, a lot of times raisins, nuts, fruits and liquors of all types become part of this as well. Ice cream can be seen topping it as well as heavy cream, Pastry Cream, Vanilla Sauce, Bourbon Sauce and on and on and on.....like Lemon Curd or Dulce de Leche or Chocolate Croissant with Nuts..... what's your favorite? Do tell.....

While Bread Pudding doesn't have to be sweet, the savory brother of this hearty and flavorful dish can be quite a creation too. How about a Baby Spinach, Cream and Garlic Bread one? or a Spinach - Shitake one? How about Mushroom, Leek and Parmesan Bread Pudding.... or a Artichoke Heart, Asparagus & Mozzarella one? A Spring Onion and Goat Cheese one? Any combination you can come up with will make a great one. The base is very much like the one used for Quiche, except that it fills the spaces in between the bread and jells in the same firm-soft manner, so any accessories that you add to it are enhanced by the amalgamation that happens in the oven. Love that word because it's so perfect for what happens here.

So which kind will you make? Here's some prime examples for you to try......

GOAT CHEESE AND SPRING ONION BREAD PUDDING.- Tangy, lemony and very satisfying. You can make it ahead of time in either a casserole dish or in individual ramekins and have them ready when you are!

1 lb sourdough bread, crust removed, cut into cubes
5 tablespoons butter
3 bunches of green onions, cut into 1/2-inch portions
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
4 large eggs
1 1/2 cups heavy cream
3/4 cup sour cream
1 tablespoon chopped basil
1- 10 oz log of goat cheese, crumbled

Preheat the oven to 400F. Put the bread cubes on a baking sheet and toast in the oven for 10 minutes, or until golden.

In a large pan, melt the butter over medium-high heat. Add the green onions and garlic and cook, keep stirring until the scallions are beginning to get tender, 2- 3 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Set aside.

In a large bowl, whisk the eggs with the heavy cream and sour cream. Gently fold in the bread cubes, green onions, basil and half the goat cheese. Season with salt and pepper. Let rest until the liquid has been absorbed, about 30 minutes. Pour the bread pudding into a baking dish and sprinkle the rest of the goat cheese on top. Put the baking dish inside a roasting or larger pan and add enough hot water to the pan to reach halfway up the side of the baking dish. (like when making custard, in a bain marie).

Bake for 40 minutes, or until the pudding is set and the top is golden brown. Serve hot or warm.

NOTE: The unbaked bread pudding can be refrigerated overnight. Bring to room temperature before baking. Take into consideration the size of the vessel you're using, it can either add to the baking time or reduce it substantially.....
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LEMON CURD BREAD PUDDING.- Oh so lemony and fresh, you must try this one!

1 loaf of brioche, about 1.4 lbs, crusts removed, bread sliced 1/2 inch thick
1 quart whole milk
3/4 cup sugar
4 large eggs
1 1/2 teaspoons lemon zest, minced
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
Lemon Curd
1 cup heavy cream

Preheat the oven to 350F. Line the bottom and sides of a 12-by-16-inch jelly-roll pan with aluminum foil and coat with cooking spray. Arrange the brioche slices in the prepared pan, fitting them in a snug single layer, insuring a good fit.

In a medium heavy saucepan, combine the milk with 1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons of the sugar and bring to a simmer. In a medium bowl, whisk the eggs with the remaining 1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar. Whisk 1 cup of the hot milk into the eggs, then whisk in the remaining hot milk until thoroughly blended, tempering the mix. Add the lemon zest and slowly whisk in the lemon juice. Pour the custard mixture evenly over the brioche and soak for 10 minutes.

Bake the brioche on the middle rack of the oven for 30 minutes, turning the pan after 15 minutes. Transfer the pan to a cooling rack and let the bread pudding cool to room temperature, about 1 hour. Refrigerate until chilled, 1 hour.

Line a 10-by-5-inch loaf pan with plastic wrap, allowing 3 inches of plastic to hang over the edge. Lightly coat the inside of the plastic wrap with cooking spray. Trim 1/2 inch off the edges of the bread pudding. Cut the bread pudding into three 5-by-11-inch strips. Gently press 1 strip of the bread pudding into the loaf pan, on the bottom. Spread 3/4 cup of the Lemon Curd evenly over the bread pudding. Repeat to form a second layer of pudding and top with more curd, making a second layer. Press the last piece of bread pudding on top, sealing the whole thing. Cover with the overhanging plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.

In a medium bowl, beat the heavy cream until stiff. Fold in the remaining 1/2 cup of Lemon Curd. Uncover the bread pudding and turn it out onto a serving plate; remove the plastic wrap. Using a hot knife, slice the bread pudding 3/4 inch thick, top with a dollop of the lemon whipped cream and serve.
NOTE: You can fold the whipped cream with other flavors that complement the Lemon Curd as well, I like blueberry compote but I've also used Apple and Pear Compotes too which work beautifully. You could also leave a plain whipped cream or add some sugar to it, you could also add some Vanilla Sugar or Cinnamon as well.
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So next time you're wondering what to do with that loaf of bread that's too hard to use.... and you're about to toss it out, remember this post and look in your fridge or pantry.... you could have your own little masterpiece right before your very eyes. It's very satisfying to come up with an amazing dish made from scraps or leftovers you thought was done..... go ahead and enjoy it.

Whether it's a Bread Pudding, Quiche, Pizza, Casserole, Pie, Calzone, Pasta or Rice Dish that will integrate those "odds and ends" is up to you, but there are so many creative and wonderful ways to make use of it all, you'll need a long time before running out of ideas..... go ahead and give it a try, you'll be glad you did!

Wouldn't some of these make excellent additions to your Holiday Table?  MMmmmm.......

Tuesday, June 21, 2011

Is it too hot to cook?..... You're still hungry, right?.....


Yes, it is really hot. Supposed to be 104F today with an expected high tomorrow of 109F (yes, crazy... I know), and you can't just hole up at home, become "mole people", crank up the AC and wait it for to pass.... no matter how much you want this to be.... Just think of others that are under hotter conditions than you, like my friends in Merida, Yucatan where their summer is hot and humid, Yikes!!!! Gets so hot and feels much hotter than here, although I miss them all the time, the weather is worth it just to be there, really.....

Anyhoo, let's get back to living in Hades.... the weather does not keep up from eating, it should and we should just stop eating, I know, but we don't and have no plans to either, so we scurry out past sunset, quickly grill and run back. Luckily we like our meat rare so it doesn't take too long either, but even if you don't cook outside, meals are still de rigeur (required) so whatever, we're cooking but maybe we can make cooler foods that will allow us to eat yummy foods while trying to keep the house cool (have to conserve energy, AC is expensive after all... and so nice), so I've got some great options for you..... And no, we won't be eating just salads and ice cream either, we want real food after all.....

This traditional dish is supposed to cook in a Dutch Oven, first searing the meat stove top and then finishing it up in the oven for h o u r s, but here is where having a bomb at home is worth its weight in gold. Instead of heating up the house and the oven for hours, you can use the good 'ol Pressure Cooker (no heat felt) and cook for about 30-40 min max.... pretty nifty I say.

Traditional Italian Pot Roast.- Wonderful flavor, hearty meal and sure to become a favorite.

1 boneless beef chuck-eye roast (3-4 lbs), tied
2 tbls vegetable oil
1 med onion, rough chop
2-3 carrots, rough chop
2-3 turnips, rough chop
1 rib of celery, chopped
1 pound cremini or white mushrooms, in large pieces
2 tbls tomato paste
2 cups tomatoes, medium dice or 1 (14 1/2 oz) can diced tomatoes
1/2 fresh tomato sauce or 1/2 cup canned tomato sauce
2 tsp sugar
1/2 cup water
1 cup red wine, Merlot or Beaujolais preferably
1 large head of garlic, remove the outer paper skin, then cut in half
1 sprig thyme, fresh
1 sprig rosemary, fresh
salt & pepper to taste

If using regular method, but you will begin the same for both techniques:
Put your oven rack in the middle position and heat the oven to 300F. (If using bomb, don't turn on the oven and you will sear the roast in the pressure cooker pot). Pat fry the roast with paper towels and salt and pepper liberally. Heat some oil in the Dutch oven (or pressure cooker) over med-high heat until just smoking and brown the roast on all sides, about 10 min. Transfer roast to large plate until you're ready to put it back in the pot.

Reduce heat to medium and cook the onion, celery, mushrooms, and tomato paste until the vegetables begin to soften, about 6 min. Add the diced tomatoes, tomato sauce, sugar, water, 1/2 cup of the wine (reserve the rest), garlic, and thyme. Return roast and the juices in the plate to pot and bring to simmer over medium-high heat. Place piece of foil over pot, cover with lid, and transfer pot to oven. (If using the pressure cooker, turn the heat to high and cover. Wait for the pot to come up to temperature and once the cooker begins to hiss, lower the heat to low and set the timer to 30 min.)

If using the oven: Cook until roast is just fork-tender, 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 hours, turning the roast after 1 hour. Uncover pot and let the roast rest in its juices for 30 min, skimming any surface fat after 20 min. Transfer the roast to a carving board and cover with foil. Remove and reserve the garlic head and skim any remaining fat from the pot (once you open the cooker you can skim off fat too). Add remaining 1/2 cup wine to pot, bring to boil over medium-high heat, and cook until sauce begins to thicken, about 12 min. Meanwhile, carefully squeeze garlic from the halves and mash it into paste, it should be very soft. Add the rosemary to the pot and simmer about 2-3 min. Remove and discard the rosemary and thyme sprigs, stir in the garlic mash and season with salt and pepper.

Remove the twine from the roast and cut the meat against the grain into 1/2" thick slices, or you can pull it apart into large rustic pieces. Transfer the meat to a serving platter and pour some of the sauce over the meat. Serve the rest of the sauce at the table.
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Or maybe you just want to grill or pan fry a steak (chicken or pork even) and just get it over with yet it still has to taste great.... How about a great "Chimichurri Sauce":

Chimichurri Sauce.- We all know Argentina is known for its beef (amazing!!!), here's their traditional accompaniment to beef, which I use on almost everything:

1/4 cup hot water
2 teaspoons dried oregano
2 teaspoons kosher salt
1 1/3 cups loosely packed flat-leaf parsley leaves
2/3 cup loosely packed cilantro leaves
6 medium garlic cloves, minced or pressed through garlic press (about 2 tablespoons)
1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1/4 cup red wine vinegar
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Combine hot water, oregano and salt in small bowl; let stand 5 minutes to soften oregano. Pulse parsley, cilantro, garlic, and red pepper flakes in food processor until coarsely chopped, about ten 1-second pulses. Add water mixture and vinegar and pulse briefly to combine. Transfer mixture to medium bowl and slowly whisk in oil until incorporated and mixture is emulsified. Cover with plastic wrap and let stand at room temperature at least 1 hour (if preparing sauce in advance, refrigerate and bring to room temperature before using).
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Zucchini and Leeks en Papillote.- A traditional French technique that can be applied to many different dishes, is very healthy and locks in flavors and prevents food from drying out:

2 zucchini, cut in long, thin strips
1 leek, cut off the tough tops and slice the white in fine juliennes
1/2 lb asparagus, trimmed into 2 parts
4 sprigs tarragon, fresh
4 garlic cloves, unpeeled
salt & pepper to taste
1 egg, beaten optional
water (optional)
cornstarch (make paste optional)

Preheat the oven to 400F. You can use a potato peeler to slice the zucchini lengthwise into thin strips.

Cut 4 sheets of parchment paper, 12 x 15 inches in size. Fold it in half. Draw half a heart shape when folded so it will be a whole heart unfolded. Cut along the inside of the line and open out.
Divide the vegetables between each heart. Position the filling on the right side of the fold line and top with tarragon and the unpeeled garlic clove. Season to taste.

Brush the edges of the paper with the beaten egg and fold over. You don't have to use the egg and can fold it without using the egg. I found this site on the web which I thought was a really good explanations of how to accomplish this technique. Cut and paste onto your browser http://www.sundaysupper.com/parch.htm gives directions and shows photos of the no egg technique, it will make you an expert at "Papillote".

Pleat the edges so it is sealed. Put it on a cookie sheet and bake for 10 min. It will puff up so make sure to move the oven racks and leave room. Serve immediately. You can let each person open their own packet on their own with scissors, but be sure and tell them that heat will escape and could burn, so open with care and enjoy the lovely aromas this technique gives.
NOTE: Once you've mastered the making of the packets this way, you can use it for fish and vegetables giving you a clean and very healthy alternative to cook.
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In keeping with "cool" foods, here are two desserts which can be made ahead and will deliver flavor and comfort in a refreshing dish. First of all I want to give you a "foolproof" pastry crust you can use for all types of pies, you'll love it:

Foolproof Pie Crust.-This pie crust can be pressed into the pie plate and refrigerated for up to 2 days or double wrap in plastic and freeze for 1 month. Once baked, cool, the shell can be wrapped tightly in plastic and stored at room temperature for up to 1 day.

1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
1/4 tsp table salt
8 tblsp butter (1 stick), softened but still cool (I've used shortening too)
2 oz cream cheese, softened but still cool

Lightly spray 9" glass pie plate with cooking spray. Whisk flour, sugar, and salt together in a bowl. With an electric mixer at med high speed, beat the butter and cream cheese, scrape down the beaters and sides of bowl, and beat until completely mixed, about 2 min. Add the flour mixture and combine on medlow until it looks like coarse cornmeal, about 20 seconds. Scrape down sides of bowl. The mixer speed now to med high and beat it until dough begins to forms large clumps, about 30 seconds. Set aside 3 tblsp of the dough.

Turn the remaining dough onto a lightly floured surface, gather it into a ball and flatten into a 6" disk. Transfer this disk to greased pie plate.

Press the dough evenly over bottom of pie plate toward sides, using heel of your hand or the bottom of a smooth cup (you can also roll out the pastry with a rolling pin as usual and then place it on the pie plate). Make sure that the dough is evenly distributed yet should be thin. Continue to work the dough over the bottom of the pie plate and up the sides until even. On floured surface, roll the reserved dough into a 12" rope. Cut into three pieces, then roll each piece into a 8" rope to form a fluted edge. Wrap it in plastic and refrigerate at least 1 hour.

With the oven rack in the middle of the oven turn oven to 325 F. Lightly prick the bottom of the crust with a fork. Bake until golden brown, 30 to 40 min. Cool on wire rack. (If large bubbles form, wait until the crust is fully baked, then gently press on bubbles with a kitchen towel or back of spoon. The bubbles will settle as crust cools.)
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Amazing Lemon Pie.-This simple recipe forms a custard type filling. You need 6 tablespoons of lemon juice for this recipe so have an extra lemons on hand in case the 3 sliced lemons do not yield enough juice.

1 double-crust pie dough (see above and make 2 batches)
3 large lemons, sliced thin and seeded (I use Persian Lemons)
1 cups sugar
1/8 tsp salt
1 tbls cornstarch
4 large eggs
1 tbls heavy cream

Adjust your oven rack to lowest position and heat the oven to 425 F. Line a 9" pie plate with 1 dough round and refrigerate for 30 min.

Squeeze the lemon slices into fine strainer set over a bowl; reserve the juice (you should have 6 tablespoons). Put the drained slices and 2 cups water to boil in a saucepan, then reduce the heat to med low and simmer until slices are soft, about 5 min. Drain the slices well and discard the liquid. Combine the softened lemon slices, sugar, salt, and 1/4 cup reserved lemon juice in a bowl; stir until the sugar dissolves.

Whisk the cornstarch and remaining lemon juice in a large bowl. Whisk the eggs into the cornstarch mixture, slowly stir in the lemon slice mixture until well combined. Pour into the chilled pie shell. Brush the edges of the dough with 1 tsp cream and top with the remaining dough round. Seal, crimp edges, and brush the top of dough with remaining cream. Using a paring knife, cut 4 vents in the top of the dough.

Bake until light golden, about 20 min, then lower the oven temperature to 375 F and continue to bake until golden brown, 20 to 25 min. Cool on wire rack for at least 1 hour. Serve. Pie can be wrapped in plastic and refrigerated for 2 days after baking.

NOTE: Found some tips on pies and it said that using a knife to evenly cut the lemons into paper-thin slices was a difficult and time-consuming task. You get better results with a mandoline (or V-slicer), which produced perfectly thin. But, if you didn't have a mandoline, putting the lemons into the freezer for about 30 minutes firms them up for better hand-slicing, which is best accomplished with a serrated knife. But same goes when you want to thin slice other things too, like fish or meat.....
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Perfect Strawberry Pie.-Here is a strawberry pie that truly delivers, but you have to make sure you have 2 cups of the berry mixture and you need to measure! The frozen fruit helps develop flavor and texture.

2 lbs frozen strawberries
2 tbls lemon juice
2 tbls water
1 tbls unflavored gelatin
1 pinch salt

1 lb fresh strawberries, cleaned and sliced thin
1 9" pie shell, baked and cooled

4 oz cream cheese, softened
3 tbls sugar
1/2 tsp vanilla extract
1 cup heavy cream

Cook the frozen strawberries in a large saucepan over med low heat until berries begin to release juice, about 3 min. Increase the heat to med high and cook, stirring, until thick and jam like, about 25 min (should be 2 cups).

Put lemon juice, water, and gelatin in small bowl. Let stand until gelatin is softened and mixture has thickened, about 5 min. Stir gelatin mixture, sugar, and salt into cooked fruit mixture and return to simmer, about 2 min. Transfer to a bowl and cool to room temperature, about 30 min.

Fold the fresh berries into the filling. Spread evenly in the pie shell and refrigerate until set, about 4 hours or even overnight.

With an electric mixer on med speed, beat cream cheese, sugar, and vanilla until smooth, about 30 seconds. With mixer running, add cream and whip until stiff peaks form, about 2 min. Serve pie with whipped cream topping.

NOTE: Be sure to m
easure the reduced strawberry mixture: You need exactly 2 cups. Put the strawberry mixture into a measuring cup. If its more than 2 cups, return it to the pan and cook it down. It may seem OCD to to measure, but the pie won't set or slice properly if you have more than 2 cups of the strawberry mixture, so take the extra couple of minutes to insure a perfect pie.
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So far this is as far as I got this time, took too long and put other things on hold so now's the time to get going on the rest. The house is very smoky with the aroma of roasting Poblano's and the heat isn't letting me open windows for now so whatever.... at least I like the smell, right? But I've been whipping up some batches of some "fun food" from way back: jello & pudding shots in some creative flavors since these popular "kid friendly" foods grew up.... you'll see, I'll send you some ideas as soon as I finish this up later. Until then, relax and enjoy!......

Friday, June 3, 2011

A Bit of Wine, Some Cheese and Thee.... Mmmmm


Yesterday was my market crawl all over the valley so I organized my list, my menu's but most of all made sure we had a good brunch before setting off so we didn't but impulse items brought on by being hungry. #1 of the prepared shopper's list: never shop hungry, makes you do crazy things..... I know that all too well, lol, getting crazy, non-nutritious things that look amazing.....

After getting lots of fruits and vegetables at the Mexican markets, proteins from a few others, we hit Trader Joe's for whole coffee beans. Just ground dark beans first thing in the morning is a thing of beauty for us.... the aroma is amazing so we make sure to scope out good values on quality beans and this month it was Trader Joe's, except that walking in there can be hazardous to your budget just seeing the imported wines featured as well as their selection of yogurts, nuts and cheeses and as mere mortals, we sucumbed to the siren call of the cheese and wine.

When you talk about cheese you've opened up a virtual Pandora's box of possibilities into the realm of amazing flavors, textures and applications. What can you do with cheese? What kind? What for? I could go on and on.... from France, Italy, Greece, US, Eastern Europe...... and depending on what you're planning, well, suffice to say it could take a while but for some reason I was in the mood for some Goat Cheese and Joe's had a special on French Chevre of all kinds: with honey, ash, herbs, chilies but all I could see was the plain Chevre I could transform into our "perfect" blend at home. Of course I also picked up some crusty baguettes, some fresh herbs and as soon as I got home got busy oven drying some tomatoes to intensify their flavors so they too could bring additional flavor to our little party, chill the wine and we're almost there.

First, let me give you a little background on this most popular food. Goat's milk is often consumed by those that have a low tolerance to cow's milk because it's assimilated better by them so you see young children, the elderly and those that are ill, drinking it. Goat's milk is the closest to human milk too, and most of the world consumes it, except the US where cow's milk is the rule, you see goat's milk cheeses being popular elsewhere, especially in places where refrigeration might be a problem and with the addition of salt as a preservative, goat cheese is prevalent. When compared to cow's milk products like cream cheese, goat cheese is lower in fat, calories and cholesterol. It also provides more calcium and fewer carbohydrates than cream cheese. Even though goat cheese has less calories, it has a full, rich and creamy flavor. Now thanks to the artisan movement and the new food culture here in the US, more and more goat cheese producers can be found, so domestic goat cheese will become (maybe) a widely available product very soon.

Most people think goat cheese is salty because of using salt to preserve it yet natural goat cheese isn't salty at all. Feta, my all time favorite cheese, which comes in a salted brine, is sometimes accused of this but I love the Eastern European versions of Feta which come IN the brine, they are wonderful!

Goat cheese is incredibly easy to make and is one of the earliest dairy products ever made. You just let the raw milk naturally curdle, you drain and press the curds. You can also use rennet to cause this action or use an acid like vinegar or lemon juice too. Home cooks all over the world make their own soft cheese and simply hang it up for several days, in cheesecloth, to cure and drain. If you want an aged product then you can brine it to create a rind and then store it in a cool place for several months and it will get done. Unfortunately in the US people mistrust raw milk so you'd have a harder time finding ingredients, but if there are farms close to you, you're in luck. Plus, you don't need raw milk to make goat's cheese so whatever goat milk you can find at your local A&P will do nicely.

Heat will soften the cheese but it doesn't act the same as cow's cheese yet the flavors imparted by the goat cheese are more tart and lend themselves well to the addition of many other flavors which complement them. If you have an aged goat cheese with a rind, you can bake in an oven and it will give you a gooey cheese which you could pair with roasted garlic to spread on some great bread.... this simple offering is quite a treat. There are so many goat cheese producing countries in the world as there are stars in the sky, some famous while others are just regional favorites, yet all impart that wonderful tart taste we've all come to enjoy.

Want to try making you own "easy as pie" goat cheese? Takes about 2 hours, very little equipment (you'll need a pot and a candy/instant read thermometer and some cheesecloth), here's the recipe:
NOTE: You can also use unbleached muslin, linen handkerchiefs, butter muslin, 100% cotton handkerchiefs, rinse or wash them really well to insure it's clean and won't impart any flavors (watch the detergent and don't use softener unless you want your cheese Downy soft). If you want to use this as "ricotta" or sweeter version for desserts, omit the garlic.

How to make Goat Cheese.- So easy, how can you not try this? This will make 8 oz cheese.

2 qts goat's milk
1/4 cup lemon juice, must be fresh squeezed or can use vinegar (or rennet), can add more
1/2 clove garlic, fresh grated
A few pinches coarse salt
Herbs (optional) but recommended: Rosemary, chives, parsley, cilantro, herbs de Provence, fennel fronds, dill, and other non-herbs like dried apricots, figs, prunes, etc.

Fill a stainless steel (or other non-reactive pan) saucepan with goat's milk. Heat gradually until it reaches 180F. Watch closely. It shouldn't take more than about 15 minutes.

Once it's up to temperature, remove from heat and stir in the lemon juice. Let stand until it starts to curdle, about 30 seconds. It won't curdle like cottage cheese curdles. It's more like a little clumping. Don't add a lot of lemon juice, thinking nothing happened. You can add some extra drops if needed. Line a colander with 3-4 layers of cheesecloth, this seems to be the consensus. You'll lose precious goat cheese if the cloth is too loose. Put it over a large bowl to catch the whey as it drips. You can use the whey as a soup base or make bread with it. Ladle milk into the lined colander. Pull up and tie the four corners of the cheesecloth together and hang on the handle of a wooden spoon to drip out, over the bowl.

Allow the whey to drain until a ricotta like consistency is obtained inside the cloth, about 1 to 1.5 hours. Transfer to a bowl and add in salt, garlic, and any flavors you'd like. Can be stored in an airtight container in the fridge, zip lock bag or similar (if it lasts that long) but I should tell you that after a few days, the consistency isn't great or as smooth as at the beginning, so try and use it up. Experiment with herbs, spices and flavors so you have your favorites that you can whip up quickly, you'll be glad you did.
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How can you enjoy Goat Cheese? Let's count the ways....

1. Spread on toast or bagels.
2. Top green salads with crumbled cheese, or with slices briefly warmed in the oven.
3. Use goat cheese in lasagna.
4. Swirl or layer with pesto to spread on crackers.
5. Substitute for cream cheese in dips.
6. For a simple pasta sauce, mix goat cheese with pesto.
7. Mix with your favorite Salsa.
8. Slice goat cheese, warm in the oven, arrange in a pool of chocolate sauce on a dessert plate, and sprinkle with chopped nuts.
9. Use in omelettes, blintzes, danishes, croissants, burritos, cannolis, etc.
10. Use in place of sour cream on baked potatoes.
11. Place a 5-ounce goat cheese round in a pint jar, cut in half. Add garlic, cloves, parsley, a few peppercorns, a spring of thyme, and 1/2 of a bay leaf, some red pepper flakes. Cover all with extra-virgin olive oil and let sit for a few days. Serve with crackers or bread.

Mango Salsa Served with Goat Cheese.- Here's a great way to enjoy goat cheese!

Mango-Pepp
er Salsa
Goat Cheese R
ounds
Coarsely ground black pepper
Fresh Chives


Make Mango Pepper Salsa:
3 mangos, peeled, pitted, diced

2 jalapenos or serrano peppers, seeded, deveined, and very finely chopped
Juice of 2 limes
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
sal to taste
2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper

In a large bowl, gently toss mango, chile peppers, lime juice, olive oil, salt, and pepper. Taste and adjust seasonings. Refrigerate until ready to serve. Prepare Goat Cheese Medallions. These may be prepared in advanced and refrigerated, covered, until ready to bake and serve.

Goat Cheese Medallions
2 (7-inch) soft goat cheese logs
2/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1/2 cup fine bread crumbs
2/3 cup coarsely chopped toasted hazelnuts
1 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper

To toast hazelnuts: Preheat oven to 350F. Place whole hazelnuts in a large baking pan
and bake, stirring frequently, for 10 to 15 minutes or until lightly toasted (watch carefully to keep nuts from burning). Remove from oven immediately and wrap nuts in a double thickness of paper toweling. Place wrapped nuts in a resealable plastic bag; seal bag and allow nuts to steam for 5 minutes. Roll enclosed nuts back and forth on a hard surface to remove skins. Remove nuts from bag and toweling; discard skins.

Preheat oven to 400F. Cut the goat cheese into 1/2-inch slices. (Use dental floss or fishing wire or string to slice the cheese logs cleanly. Pour olive oil into a small bowl; dip goat cheese slices into olive oil and coat both sides of each slice. In another small bowl, combine bread crumbs, hazelnuts, and pepper; place the olive oil coated goat cheese slices into the crumb mixture (gently pat nut mixture onto the goat cheese, turning to coat all sides). Place the prepared goat cheese medallions on a non-stick or lightly oiled baking sheet. (NOTE: the croutons may be refrigerated at this point for several hours). Bake for approximately 5 to 6 minutes or until the cheese softens slightly. Remove from oven and serve immediately with the Salsa

Using individual serving plates, layer 3 tablespoons Mango Pepper Salsa in the center of each plate. Sprinkle coarse black pepper over salsa and around the plate. Place two hot Goat Cheese Medallions onto the top of the salsa on each plate. Sprinkle with snipped chives or cross two chive stems across each other and place on top of the goat cheese medallions. Serve immediately.
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Goat Cheese Chees
ecake Appetizers.- This makes a great first course or a cocktail party
offering!

1/2 cup fresh homemade bread crumbs
1/2 cup finely ground walnuts
1 tablespoon butter, melted
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
4 oz cream cheese, room temperature
5 oz soft goat cheese
1 egg, beaten lightly
1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives, plus more for garnish
1 teaspoon finely diced red bell pepper, for garnish

Preheat the oven to 350F. Butter eighteen 1/8 cup mini-muffin cups. In a medium bowl, combine the bread crumbs, ground walnuts, butter, 1/4 teaspoon of the salt, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper; stir until thoroughly combined. Spoon a heaping teaspoon of the walnut mixture into each muffin cup and press down into the bottom of the cups.

With an electric mixer, beat the cream cheese until light and fluffy. Add the goat cheese; beat until creamy. Add the
egg and beat until well combined. Add the chives, the remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt, and remaining 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Divide the goat cheese mixture between the mini-muffin cups and smooth the tops. Top the cheesecakes with the diced red peppers. Bake approximately 15 minutes or until puffed. Remove from oven and let cool on a rack for 5 minutes, un-mold. You can put them on a lettuce leaf or other base for serving.
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I hope I can inspire you to try some of these, you'll be rewarded by
wonderful food to share or just consume.... the good thing with goat cheese is that it doesn't need a lot of additions to deliver full flavor, a good bread, some wine and you'll be ready! Easy to prepare, quick to make, flavor plus and a real crowd favorite... what more could you ask for? You can serve it for a special occasion or simply on a weeknight and treat yourself, a cocktail party or a backyard chill out evening.... it's all good.

Sending everyone best wishes for a lovely summer... we'll talk soon.

Sunday, May 22, 2011

Fresh Fish.... the smell and taste of the Ocean in your mouth.....


I love fish and seafood or should I say I love FRESH fish and seafood. It's said this is the best source of protein and the one we assimilate the best. Full of the things our bodies need to keep it healthy and lean, amazing delicate taste and texture..... BUT in these times and unless you live right by the water (ocean or river) your access is limited by the quality and price. Yikes!

This happens to us here in the middle of the desert and many a time I've found myself debating about wild caught or farm raised, fresh or flash frozen, a good deal or price so high it's outrageous.... whenever the need arose to have some fish or seafood. Of course, in one sense we're lucky to have all the casinos in town with so much purchasing power that allow food vendors to make daily runs to Sin City which gives us variety, but then on the other hand they have to fly them in, treat them with tremendous care which drives up the price so most people on a budget simply can't make them part of their diet anymore. Plus there are lots of people that simply don't like fish at all.

Sure, we have some of the best celebrity chefs in the world with restaurants here but when you're looking at an average check of around $75-$140 per person or more, not including drinks, tax or tips, it tends to limit your options, right? Very unfortunate for most, so I poach their menus and reproduce their offerings at home which makes these dishes affordable (if you can find quality fish/seafood at decent prices that is, which does happen but not that often). I remember going fishing with my dad in Oregon, Idaho, Wyoming, Alaska, California, Mexico and anywhere we could, to this day I love it still and am sad I don't have the chance to do it anymore... well, maybe someday....

Got some pretty decent Red Snapper Fillets on sale at my local Smith's which is part of the Kroger chain, we've been partial to them for many years especially due to their penchant for excellent meat and steaks, great prices and their specials. This time it was fish and shellfish week so we get to indulge a little bit which is what brought me to this post. So I've got these two monster fillets of Red Snapper waiting to be turned into something amazing and I'm looking everywhere for inspiration..... here are some:

Greek Style Fish.- You can use almost any fish with this recipe, it's an old standby and always amazing, easy and quick.

1-2 lb fish steaks
Kosher salt
1 cup flour for dredging
1 Tblsp garlic powder (not garlic salt)
1/4 cup olive oil
4 Tblsp Asian fish sauce, or 2 Tblsp Worcestershire sauce
2 Tblsp olive oil
2 Tblsp honey
2 Tblsp ouzo or other anise-flavored liqueur (I'm using Tequila)
1 Tblsp chopped fresh oregano
Freshly ground black pepper

Make sure the fish looses the cold of the fridge for about 5-10 minutes. Sprinkle kosher salt on them. Mix the 2 tablespoons olive oil, the honey and the fish sauce together by whisking vigorously for a minute or so. Mix the garlic powder in with the flour.

Heat a large frying pan over high heat for a minute or two. Add most of the 1/4 cup of oil. Start with a little more than half. Turn the heat down to medium-high and let this heat up for 2 minutes. Dust the fish with the seasoned flour, shake off the excess and sear in the oil. Let the fish sear to a golden brown. You might have to cook the fish in batches if your pan is too small. Set aside the finished fish as you do the rest. Add more of the reserved olive oil if you need it.

Remove all the fish to a paper towel and let drain. Pour in the ouzo and scrape off any browned bits with a wooden spoon. Add the honey-fish sauce-olive oil mixture and mix everything well. Let this cook down until the whole surface of the pan is a mass of bubbles. Turn off the heat. Add the fish back into the pan and coat with the sauce. Serve over rice, garnished with the oregano and the black pepper.
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Sichuan Sweet and Sour Crispy Fish.- Doesn't that just sound amazing! This is such a great recipe you have to try it so you too can see.....

2 whole (but scaled and gutted) rockfish or other pan-sized fish
3 green onions, chopped
1 inch piece ginger, peeled and finely chopped
1 Tblsp Chinese cooking wine (or Japanese Mirin)
1 Tblsp soy sauce
1 tsp freshly ground black pepper

3 inch piece of ginger, peeled and cut in julienne (very thin strips)
1/2 medium onion, cut in very fine half moon slices
3 cloves garlic, sliced very fine
1/2 habanero chile, or 1-2 Thai chiles or 1 serrano, very finely sliced
5 Tblsp water
5 Tbsp tomato sauce or catsup
3 Tbsp sugar
1 Tbsp Chinese cooking wine (or Japanese Mirin)
1 Tbsp soy sauce
1 1/2 tsp corn starch
1 Tblsp finely chopped cilantro
1 Tblsp finely chopped green onions or chives
4 cups peanut or vegetable oil
2 cups flour for dredging

Prepare the fish. Cut off the fins of each fish with kitchen shears or scissors. Remove the gills of the fish if they are still attached by cutting them out with the kitchen shears. Make three vertical slices along each side of the fish evenly spaced along its length. If you have a long fish, make four slices. Rinse the fish under cold water and pat dry.

Marinate. Mix the 3 green onions, the finely chopped ginger, the tablespoon of Chinese cooking wine, the tablespoon of soy sauce and the black pepper together, then pour the mixture into a glass or plastic container, or Ziploc bag, with the fish and make sure the marinade surrounds the fish. Let this sit in the fridge for 30 minutes.

Prepare the vegetables. Have the julienned ginger, the 1/2 onion, the garlic cloves, all ready. Pour the oil into a wok and turn the heat on to medium. If you do not have a wok, use the largest, deepest skillet you have. A wok helps here, since its shape prevents the tail fin from burning. Take care in a pan and make sure your fish fits.

Make the sauce. Mix the tomato sauce, sugar, soy sauce, Chinese cooking wine, water and corn starch and stir vigorously to combine. Set it aside. Take the fish out of the fridge and check the oil temperature. Should be about 300-325 degrees. If you don't have a thermometer, the oil is ready when a drop of water is dropped into the oil fizzles immediately.

Fry the fish. Remove the fish from the marinade and dredge in flour. Shake off excess, and when the oil is hot, slip the fish into the oil. Do one fish at time. Turn the oven on to "warm." Fry the fish for at least 5 minutes per side. You want it to be crispy, golden brown. With 300-degree oil, a 1-pound fish is fried for 8 minutes on the first side, 5 minutes on the other side. Larger fish will need more time so keep an eye on it. When the first fish is done, remove it to a plate and put the plate in the warm oven. Fry the second fish the same way as the first, etc.

Finishing up. When the fish are done, take out all but about 1/4 cup of the oil, reserve the rest (you can filter through a coffee filter, cool and save in a jar for another fish fry). Toss in the ginger, the onion, the chiles and the garlic and stir-fry over high heat for 2 minutes. Add the sweet-and-sour sauce and stir well to combine. Bring this to a rapid boil and stir well. Cook for 2 minutes. To serve, place the fish on a plate, sauce on top of it and garnish with the finely chopped chives and cilantro. This dish goes best with simple steamed white rice.
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Parmesan Baked Fish.- Easy, quick and wonderful, what more could you ask for?

1/4 cup milk
2 tsp salt
2 lb fish fillets
1/2 cup fine dry bread crumbs (I use old bread, all kinds of bread, in a blender)
1/2 tsp paprika
1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese
melted butter

Preheat oven to 375 F. Grease a rectangular baking dish. Blend together the milk and salt in a shallow bowl. Combine bread crumbs, paprika, and Parmesan cheese in another bowl. Dip fish fillets into milk mixture then into crumb mixture. Arrange in the prepared baking dish. Drizzle melted butter over fillets. Bake for 25 minutes, depending on thickness of fillets. Fish should flake easily with a fork when done.
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Easiest and Crispiest Fish Fillets.- A basic recipe that yields great fish. Economical, practical and done in no time flat! I also like corn flakes for crispy pork chops and chicken.

1 to 1 1/4 pounds fish fillets
2 tblsp butter, melted
2 tblsp lemon juice
1/2 tsp salt
1/4 tsp pepper
1/4 tsp dried dill weed, optional (dill is amazing with fish & potatoes)
2 cups crushed corn flakes (in the blender but just pulsed so it's not all fine)

Grease a 13x9 inch baking dish. If fish fillets are large, cut into serving-size portions. Combine butter and lemon juice; set aside. Mix salt, pepper, and dill weed. Dip each piece of fish in butter and lemon mixture. Sprinkle salt and dill mixture over each side of fish. Coat with the corn flake crumbs. Place fish fillets in prepared pan and bake in a 350 F oven until fish flakes easily with a fork, 20 minutes, depending on thickness of the fish fillets.
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Salmon with Champagne Sauce.- So simple yet so elegant, very fast and impressive!

4 salmon filets
1 cup flour for dredging
1/3 cup unsalted butter
1 cup Champagne or other dry sparkling wine, like Prosecco
1 cup heavy cream
Salt and pepper to taste
Sprigs of parsley

Add salt and pepper to the flour. Flour the filets and shake off the excess. Melt the butter in a broad skillet over medium heat and cook the filets for 4 minutes, turning them after 2 minutes. Sprinkle half the champagne over them and continue cooking until it is reduced by half. When the filets are done, remove them to a heated serving dish and keep them warm.

Raise the heat to medium-high. Add the rest of the champagne to the pan and bring to a boil. Add the cream to the pan, season to taste, and continue to cook until the sauce becomes creamy. Taste to adjust seasonings. Spoon the sauce over the fish, garnish with parsley, and serve at once.
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As always, for more recipes about fish or sauces you can use to complement a dish, please search through the blog, ok? Lots of tips, preparations and ideas for one thing can be adapted to suit other needs and you might just find something that will give you an amazing dish.

Don't forget that if you need help with a recipe or want to serve something special and you need more info, drop me a line and I'll be glad to help any way I can. Hoping everyone's weekend has been restful and lovely, we'll talk soon....

Friday, March 18, 2011

Sauces, Condiments, School and Everything Else......


As I sit at my computer to write this I have time to reflect on today's date which lets me know that I only have a couple of days before the end of my latest block of classes which makes me happy. Another milestone reached and so far, my GPA has remained intact. I've heard my next block is more than just challenging since it's referred to, with dread, as the pairing down class, designed to pressure everyone who won't be able to cut it "out in the world" and those that are just playing at cooking from those that will actually try and make a go of it. Some of our comrades took this course early (they're not in the full degree program) and 3 of the girls cried several times that first week. There are many stories such as this.....

Rene and I are looking forward to the challenge so we can be tested. We know we are up to it. We will do well, of that I have no doubts. No more recipes will be given out, no more hand holding (something I complained about) and no more "making nice". Good, about time. I can feel it and will be ready. Let's get going!!!! Who Hoo! But I've got finals next week, turning in the last projects early, making a cooking video "a la Food Channel" to present (making amped up Crab Cakes) and then we get our Spring Break which couldn't come at a worst time. We don't need to relax and slow down, we need to get going and speed up. Taking time off is never a good thing in this example, but whatever.....

In the meantime I'm still working on the Charcuterie Project I told you about, delving into the mysterious world of all things preserved, brined, salted, smoked and flavored. The more I get into it the more I wish I could wrangle out an Externship with someone who does all this for real so I could learn it from someone who knows their stuff. That would be amazing! But then I'd also like for Mario Batali to teach me Rustic Italian Cooking (I'm working on it) or someone like that, wouldn't that be great? I'd be willing to work for almost nothing and do the grunt work too just to learn..... Have someone like Eric Ripert teach me about Fish & Seafood..... Work in a lodge up in Alaska (fantastic fish!), or in Seattle? Opium dreams? Maybe, maybe not....

Today I'm waiting for dinner to get done and as usual I'm deciding on what sauce to make. I know I'm a saucier at heart and a wonderful, silky or rustic full flavor sauce melts my black little heart like nothing else.... well, maybe Kitty's antics come a close second.... but sauces are my weak spot no doubt about it. I'll do some research into what I need to do to get a posting in a place like that maybe..... very interesting how tangents suddenly appear.....MMmmm...

Speaking of sauces and condiments, here are some tasty bits for you to try, they're amazing!
I will let you in some comments as we go along and I hope you will consider these whenever you're looking for an "extra", ok? First of all is Mayonnaise. You might think it's just for sandwiches of salad but the truth is that it's a great all-purpose sauce that be used for anything, as long as it's good (Miracle Whip doesn't even count here, ok?) First rule is make your own. It takes a couple of minutes yet makes a world of difference. Add some flavorings and you're set. Use 1 egg yolk per 250 ml of oil, use a whisk or better still, a mortar and pestle and you'll get thick face-cream stuff. Add some lime, cumin, cayenne for Pork- Saffron and garlic for Fish- Lemon juice and Tarragon for Chicken- horseradish for Beef.... quick and easy.

Aioli.- A type of mayo using flavorings that brings this creamy mixture to heights without limit. Add roasted red peppers and it turns into "rouille" which is served with fish- Add some saffron infused water and it's extraordinary- use it with anything at all. You'll need:

1 large egg yolk (organic is always best)
1 1/2 tsp water
1/2 tsp white wine vinegar
1 tsp kosher salt
1 1/2 tbsp fresh lemon juice (or to your taste)
1 tsp garlic, minced or mashed to a paste
1 cup EV Olive oil

Mix the yolk, water, vinegar, salt, some drops of lemon juice and garlic in a medium bowl and whisk to combine. Whisk continuously while you drizzle in the oil, begin drop by drop, then thin stream (as it begins to thicken) until it's all incorporated. Taste and adjust seasonings. Add some drops of water if too thick. Don't forget to think of variations.

Chile Mustard.- I've seen a couple of different takes of this, but it's still pretty tasty.

1 Poblano Pepper, roasted, de-stemmed, de-seeded, peeled
1 Serrano Pepper (or Jalapeno, your choice of heat), roasted, de-stemmed, de-seeded, peeled
1 tbsp cumin (from seeds that were toasted and ground)
1 tsp thyme, dried, crushed
1 tbsp chile powder (Ancho chile powder or your choice), ground
1 tbsp Dry mustard powder
1/4 cup dark beer (or your choice)
3/4 cup lager
1/4 cup honey (or sugar, white or brown)
3 tbsp Tequila (or Pulque)
4 large egg yolks

Mince the Poblanos and Serranos fine. Using a bain marie (double boiler) add all the ingredients and stir to combine well. Continue to cook while your water simmers for about 20-25min or until it's smooth and thick, but maintain a calm whisk pace since you don't want to beat too much air into this. Once it's thick, remove from the heat and refrigerate, covered until cool.

How about making your own Sweet Pickles? I love these!

1 lb cucumbers, sliced
1/4 lb onions, sliced
1 cup vinegar (cider or white or your choice) or mix half and half
1-2 tbsp Kosher Salt
1/2 tsp mustard seeds
1 cup sugar (or more)
1 tsp celery seeds
1 tsp allspice berries
2 bay leaves
1/2 tsp whole black peppercorns
1-2 whole chile de arbol, dried (the little red ones, Thai ones too)
1/2 tsp cumin, ground

Put all the ingredients into a large pan and bring to a boil, then lower the heat and cook for about 15 minutes. Cool to room temperature, place in a large jar, cover and refrigerate.
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So many things to make and share there isn't enough time for it all. One thing takes you to another and then a tangent hits and you're off on another adventure..... you never know where you'll end up except that it's sure to be a tasty journey, right? So go ahead and make something great tonight and savor your results.... nothing comes close.

Wishing everyone a great weekend full of great food and drink. I think I'll make a wonderful Wine Vinaigrette to go with the Mixed Baby Greens, Goat Cheese and Bacon Curls and I've got a good White wine that will do very nicely (plus there's leftovers to drink too!). Also have a Creamy Poblano, Corn Pasta with a Garlic Cream Sauce on the stove and we're ready for a late night meal.... no school tomorrow so no worries. Have a great night! Talk soon....

Saturday, February 5, 2011

Finally some time to sit and reflect..... and cook too!


Moving is all over with and we're finally installed in our new place. It's been so surprising to all of us to feel and see the momentous differences between the East Side of town and the West where we now make our home and it's affected us all in positive ways.... kind of like finding a place where you belong and comfortable again, and it is. Definitely a good move but it took it's toll on all of us, even though we thought we'd rested, we hadn't and it showed in this last week's daily grind, we just couldn't get our energy back and we dragged all through the week.... until it came to Friday afternoon when we collapsed, exhausted and not being able to even move.....

But today is Sunday morning and we're feeling much recharged and much, much better. School is still good and our grades reflect it. YAY! It's been a punishing week with complicated dishes on the menu but came out of it with flying colors and very tasty food to enjoy. I've still got some Roast Duck in the fridge whispering to me.... except in school the sauce was "au natural" while I cooked up some Orange-Tamarind Glaze instead to pump it up. It was awesome and lent just the right touch of sweet/sour to hit your taste buds in the right way. MMMmmmmm!

Something amazing happened to me Friday at school when talking to one of my Instructors at Le Cordon Bleu when discussing sauces, come to find she loves Mole and she was surprised I make my own (but of course!...) and one thing led to another and discussing Mexican Food I come to find that she had been a customer of mine at "Quinta Belina"! Amazing! (yes, she was very impressed....). More amazing is that I still run into people sometimes that remember our little place and were customers..... so satisfying and a great ego boost as you can imagine. Anyway, made my day.....

More than ever and as I delve more into the French way of things since the school is all French technique that I find my appreciation for good and authentic Mexican Food grows. There is also a sadness there when I realize that it's not easy to find and what there is mostly a poor version and people come to believe this is what Mexican Food is.... You'd think that with all the Mexicans in the US we would have better representation, right? But it seems they get amnesia as soon as they cross the border! So it's up to those of us that believe we need to present, maintain and conserve the true cuisine of Mexico, done the old way following the classic preparations and techniques along with whole, natural ingredients so we can show how wonderful our food is and why we can't let it die out. Heavy duty Mexican Food is where it's at.

Yesterday at school it was Canard Poele Aux Navets or Roasted Duck with Turnips, and while it was scheduled to be served with a natural sauce, I was given permission to improvise and so I came up with a sweet apple cider vinegar glaze that had citrus undertones and was absolutely perfect with the richness of the duck. Also made Sole Meuniere which was amazing yet to me, it doesn't hold a candle to my very favorite, duck. I got an extra duck to bring home and while I was debating whether to make Duck Confit or another roasted duck, I settled on a crispy skinned duck with an Orange-Tamarind Sauce plus a Duck Mole with hints of Cinnamon, Cumin and Cardamom. As I write this the aromas of the sauces waft over the kitchen giving us anticipatory feelings of our soon to be devoured meal...... I love food!

So, going back to Mexican Food and that Mole I created I thought you'd appreciate a different take on this classic dish. Don't worry if you don't like duck (OMG!) since you can use Chicken, Turkey or even Pork instead, ok? Make enough so you'll have leftovers to use later with "Enmoladas", Nachos, Chilaquiles, over refried beans, on top of Huevos Rancheros, as a dipping sauce, with potatoes......

For those of you that think Duck is not a very Mexican ingredient to use in this dish let me tell you that our Spanish invaders found Mucovy Ducks happily living in Mexico when they got here, the Europeans had a larger duck type to use for foi gras and the smaller one was replaced by a larger species from Spain. You'll find plenty of duck recipes in Mexico (I've got a great tamale recipe I'll post soon) but turkey was used mostly in Mexico so Mole was originally conceived with wild turkey, the bird guys, not the drink, ok?

Mole de Pato (Duck Mole).- A rich sauce for a decadent dish.... satisfying and amazing!

1 Duck, rinsed and pat dry (you can use whole, thighs & legs or magrets)
Sat & Pepper the outside well

For chicken:
1 large chicken, cut up
About 8 cups of water
1/2 onion, in quarters
3 garlic cloves, peeled
1 celery rib, cut in half
salt to taste

Sauce:
6 mulato peppers
4 ancho peppers
6 pasilla peppers
6 whole cloves
1/2 teaspoon black peppercorns
1/4 teaspoon coriander seeds
1/4 teaspoon anis seeds
1/3 cup sesame seeds
2 inches of a stick of mexican cinnamon
1/2 cup of raisins or prunes
1/2 cup almonds, peeled
1/3 cup of raw pumpkin seeds
3 small roasted tomatoes
3 garlic gloves, peeled & roasted
1 large ripe dark-skinned plantain, peeled, thickly sliced (or more, to taste)
1/2- 1 cup smooth Peanut Butter, optional
1/2- 1 cup sugar, optional
1 Tablet of Mexican Chocolate (Ibarra or Abuelita Brand), cut in pieces
Chicken broth from cooking chicken or make your own
1/2 cup of oil or lard to fry the ingredients
Salt to taste

If using the duck, stab it with a knife all over (little holes so fat will drain out) and place on baking pan in 400 degree oven and cook until done or 170 degrees with a thermometer. About 1 1/2 hours. Baste with the fat in the pan after 45 minutes and about every half hour after that to crisp the skin. If you're using duck then don't use lard or oil for any of the steps below, use the rendered duck fat to add more flavor (or save for french fries...OMG!)

If using chicken or turkey: Put the ingredients in a large pot, cover with water and cook, simmering until done, about 45-60 min. Skim foam off the top as you see it, keep it clear.

If using pork, cut it up in cubes and sear until golden brown in a pan with a little lard or oil over med-high heat. Reserve.

To make the sauce: Take the dried chiles, split them open and remove the stem, seeds and veins, flatten down. In a large pan on the stove, over med heat, toast the chiles (you could dip them in oil if you wanted to) until fragrant, turning so both sides get done. Once done, place them in a bowl or pan with hot water and allow them to soak until they are soft, about 1 hour or so. Toast all the spices in the pan until they become fragrant, turning them to prevent their burning. If you have a food mill or coffee grinder, once toasted grind them well and reserve in a bowl until ready to use them. In the pan with a little oil in it, roast the fresh produce like the tomatoes and garlic, you can throw in the raisins or prunes here too.

Now, in your blender, place the soaked chiles along with their soaking liquid and blend them until you obtain a smooth puree. Then you will add the toasted and ground spices to this, incorporating so everything is smooth and velvety. Then add the tomatoes, garlic and plantain. As you blend things and need to empty the blender glass, add more stock as you need it to help the blender along, have a large pot ready with a little lard or oil (unless using duck) over med heat ready to receive the smooth puree, add to this as ingredients are processed and mix, mix, mix.

The plantain is here to thicken and lend some sweetness to the party, while the peanut butter adds a nutty undertone while thickening as well. Depending on your preference, you can add more or leave without, but a lot of people thicken mole with toasted tortillas or pieces of bread and to be honest, these don't inspire me since they don't bring much flavor. I also don't like to thicken my sauces with flour or other "thickeners" as a rule if I have something that can thicken naturally while imparting their own flavors and textures.

You should have a thick like paste at this point that needs to be fried in the pan with lard, oil or duck fat. Mix, scrape off the bottom and be sure you cook it well. You will have something akin to a bubbling cauldron by now, taste it again so you are sure you're on the right track, you can add some of the reserved chicken broth to get the consistency you need, thick so it's really coats the back of a spoon and has "body". Now add the chocolate if you want and mix to allow to melt. You should be tasting all the while so you know whether or not you will be wanting to add more chocolate, some sugar or not, more plantain, peanut butter, your choice.

You need to let this sauce come together, over very low heat, mixing every now and then so it doesn't burn or stick on the bottom. Adding more broth if you need to and tasting. Once the duck is done, allow to rest and split it in 6-8 pieces, reserve the back portions which you will put in the sauce as it cooks to give it even more flavor. If you're using Pork, now is the time to add it to the sauce and let it finish cooking along with the sauce. The meat will release juices which will flavor the sauce. Let the meat get very tender before eating, ok? Or you can use a pressure cooker to speed things along. Allow this to cook at least 1 hour (or more in a regular pot, the pressure cooker will be less) or come to this point and turn off the heat, save it and finish it the next day to allow for even more flavors to come through. This gets better with age and turns into "recalentado".....

When I made this in Puerto Vallarta I used a huge "cazuela de barro" (glazed terracotta pot) which is THE thing to use with wooden spoons, it also allows more flavors to develop and the glazing makes them better than non-stick while being great heat retaining vessels. My neighbors would walk by to try and guess what was cooking on the three large cazuelas bubbling in my outdoor kitchen (usually Asado de Boda Zacatecano, Mole y Salsa de Cacahuate).... aromas of our homeland, fragrant and full of flavor!

Your sauce will gel and become a paste which you can then store for future uses like Enchiladas or whatever, all you need to do is add some broth to it for it to come back. It keeps a long time in the fridge so you have an amazing meal ready in no time at all. Or you can freeze in individual servings (zip lock bags) so you can just boil in hot water or nuke it and an ordinary meal becomes extra-ordinary. This will be amazing!

Now make a lovely Frisee salad with a nice vinaigrette, some crisp veggies and some rice pilaf and you've got one incredible meal! Impressive for company but a guilty pleasure for a night of staying in.....

I hope you will at least try this one time so you can see what I'm talking about.... There are so many variations to mole you'd have a hard time keeping up with all of them, but it's fun to try. I've got some incredible fruit based moles which I'll share soon too. But in the meantime, savor every spoonful.... talk soon....

Thursday, January 13, 2011

Once Again Reporting from the Edge......

It's Thursday (now it's Friday afternoon and I'm at the school's library) and I'm counting the hours..... long weekend almost here and to tell you the truth I will be needing that extra day off. School has been intense, cramming knowledge into every part of my addled brain but surprisingly, I am retaining it, yet I wonder, where does it go? I must admit that a lot of what we do I've done before, the techniques as they're being presented are the same I've been doing on my own forever.... Who would have thunk it, I taught myself pretty darn well!.....

I've always been partial to books and have looked at them as a way of learning and they have taught me anything and everything from the time I was young and didn't have access to adults or others who could teach me my interests. So from the time I discovered the Public Library, I had my sources. When I needed to learn how to cut my kids hair, it was a book that taught me "How To Cut Your Own and Anyone's Else's Hair".... I swear. I use it to this day and my husband and son haven't been to a barber in eons. I used to cut my own too, but having to have someone holding a mirror for me plus having my arms suspended to cut the back was so tiring I'd rather spend the $15 and go to Supercuts, yet I still "customize" it.....
When my eldest was born, like others, I looked to my mother for guidance yet all she did was give me Dr. Spocks Child and Baby Book (this was a long time ago) and told me: "You're on your own".... and I was. That paperback got VERY used and I would read it for any and every doubt or situation I needed help with. It saved me and taught me common sense and what books were for. From then on I would look to books for learning anything else. It worked.

So, when I needed to learn to cook, once again I went to the library and looked stuff up. Betty Crocker was my mentor (I know...lol, but I had to learn somehow, right?) and little by little as I watched others cook (or not cook), it taught me how to go about things. I spent a bleak winter in Central California (another lifetime ago...), jobless due to the weather with lots and lots of potatoes.... I learned 1,001 recipes for how to cook potatoes and it never turned me off them, we enjoy them still. It taught me lots of valuable lessons on economy, flexibility, flavors, times, making do, doing without, etc. Lessons I still use.

Now when I'm in the school's kitchen watching a pot simmering away, I can't help but think back to how I got interested in food and the very twisted roads which led me to this space in time. You never know what turns your life can take but I have to say that I was lucky finding food because "if you're in food", I will never go hungry, there are always jobs for people who know how to cook and I can always make money with some type of food, regardless of where in the world I am at. How about that for job security? Trends may come and go, banks may fail and governments may falter but there is something that everyone needs, wants and loves= FOOD. So I tell young people who ask me about cooking: "Learn to cook and you will be very attractive to lots of people!".... so very true and yummy too!

The weather here is still "in flux", today it was warm and sunny yet the nights have been amazingly cold, winter is still here. With that in mind, here are a couple of recipes which may look hard but they're not and they will give you amazing results that you can keep for a lifetime. Just made these in class and I'm looking forward to having them tonight, YUM!

French Onion Soup.- Who doesn't like this? It's wonderful, easy to make and fantastic to serve. Great for a grand meal or just an evening in front of the TV.....

3 oz Butter, cut in small cubes
2 lbs onion, cut into fine slices
1 tbl flour
6 oz White Wine
1 Qt Veal or Beef Stock (good stock)
1 Bouquet Garni (cheesecloth with bay leaf, blk peppercorns, thyme sprig, parsley sprigs)
2 oz Heavy Cream
1 oz Port Wine (good one)
1 tsp Sherry Vinegar, if needed
1 French Baguette, cut in 1 inch slices
4 oz Gruyere Cheese, grated

Heat the butter in a saucepan and add the onions over med-low heat. Cook until the onions are dark golden brown, scraping the bottom so they get golden but don't burn. Don't brown too fast or use high heat, takes at least 20 min or more, be patient, it's worth it.

Once they're dark brown, add the flour and cook, stirring, until it this mixture begins to take color. Deglaze with the White Wine, scraping the tasty bits off the bottom and let it reduce by half over a med-high heat.

Add the stock and the bouquet garni (all tied inside of the cheesecloth, pu the bay leaf, parsley sprig, thyme sprig and some black peppercorns), season with a little salt and white pepper and let it simmer on low heat for about 30-45 min. Scrapping the bottom now and then. It should have a lovely brown color and wonderful aroma.

Remove the bouquet garni and in a bowl combine the port wine and the cream and mix them together, then take a small laddle full of soup and add it to the port/cream and mix well (you're tempering it), then another and mix again. Now add this mixture to the soup and allow to incorporate for a couple of minutes. You can add some some drops of Sherry Vinegar if you think it's too sweet, if not, omit. Taste, taste, taste... only way to tell....

Cut the bread into slices and put them on a cookie sheet in a 350 F oven and toast them for about 10-15min. so they will be able to withstand the soup without getting limp on you. They should be toasted and hard. Once everything's ready, taste the soup and check the seasonings: salt and white pepper.
Pour soup into a cup with two bread slices over top and cover, generously with the Gruyere cheese, now put it under the broiler (or oven) until it gets melted and golden brown. Serve.
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Creme Dubarry (Cream of Cauliflower) Soup.- Rich, creamy, comforting..... MMMmmm!


2 oz flour
2 oz butter - in small cubes
1 pint Chicken Stock - hot
1 pint Milk - hot
1 piece of an onion, studded with a whole clove
1 Bouquet Garni (see above)
1 cup cauliflower, cut in small pieces (or you can use what you have leftover, like stems)
Finishing:
1 egg yolk
3 oz Heavy Cream
1 1/2 oz Butter, in small cubes
1 sprig of Chervil, for garnish

Make a white roux by melting the butter and adding the flour. Stir it until it comes together and cook it for 1-2 min. Add milk and stock and stir constantly until it simmers, it will begin to thicken. Add the onion with the clove and the bouquet garni, add the cauliflower and cook 25-30 min or until the cauliflower is tender.

Take our the bouquet garni and the onion. Puree the soup with an inmension blender or in a blender, you can pass it through a sieve to make it finer if you want. Season with salt and white pepper.

To finish: Combine the egg yolk and cream, then temper as described above, then add it to the soup. It should be velvety smooth, so you "Mounte au beaurre" (Mount with butter) by adding some of the butter, 2-3 pats at a time, mixing so they will melt. Check to see when it is enough, taste it, check seasonings again. Serve with a sprig of Chervil on top. Enjoy!
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Well, my week's done and I'm off to rest but have plenty of research to do to prepare for the coming week. We're now going into Legumes, Grains, Vegetables and Pasta, so it promises to be not only tasty but pretty interesting as well., but that's next week, for now all I can think of is kicking off my humongous industry specific shoes (heavy, unattractive and steel toed, definitely NOT a fashion trend, but a part of the required Chef's uniform so whatever..), my uniform, silly hat, kerchief and get down to the business of relaxing..... TGIF all!..... Talk soon....