I love noodles, many of us do. They are supremely versatile, economical (unless you go whole hog into the artisanal world of imported pasta), easy to make, fast cooking and most people like them. What else could you ask from an ingredient....
This nifty and popular food has an impressive pedigree too. Historians have noted several milestones relevant to pasta, none which change the basic characteristics. For example, the works of the 2nd century AD Greek physician Galen 
mention "homogeneous compounds made up of flour and water." The Jerusalem Talmud records that "itrium", a kind of boiled dough, was common in Palestine from the 3rd to 5th centuries AD. A dictionary compiled by the 9th century Syrian physician and lexicographer Isho bar Ali defines " itriyya" , the Arabic cognate, as "string-like shapes made of semolina and dried before cooking". The geographical text of Muhammad al-Idrisi, compiled for the Norman King of Sicily, Roger II, in 1154 mentions itriyya manufactured and exported from Norman Sicily: "West of Termini there is a delightful settlement called Trabia. Its ever-flowing streams propel a number of mills. Here there are huge buildings in the countryside where they make vast quantities of itriyy which is exported everywhere to Calabria, to Muslim and Christian countries. Very many shiploads are sent".
mention "homogeneous compounds made up of flour and water." The Jerusalem Talmud records that "itrium", a kind of boiled dough, was common in Palestine from the 3rd to 5th centuries AD. A dictionary compiled by the 9th century Syrian physician and lexicographer Isho bar Ali defines " itriyya" , the Arabic cognate, as "string-like shapes made of semolina and dried before cooking". The geographical text of Muhammad al-Idrisi, compiled for the Norman King of Sicily, Roger II, in 1154 mentions itriyya manufactured and exported from Norman Sicily: "West of Termini there is a delightful settlement called Trabia. Its ever-flowing streams propel a number of mills. Here there are huge buildings in the countryside where they make vast quantities of itriyy which is exported everywhere to Calabria, to Muslim and Christian countries. Very many shiploads are sent".Itriyya gives rise to "trie" in Italian, signifying long strips such as tagliatelle and trenette. One form of itriyy
a with a long history is "laganum" (plural lagana), which in Latin refers to a thin sheet of dough, and gives rise to Italian Lasagna. The Chinese people were eating noodles made of millet as long ago as 2000 BC. This has been suggested as Marco Polo importing pasta from China originated with the Macaroni Journal, published by an association of food industries with the goal of promoting the use of pasta in the United States. Marco Polo describes a food similar to "lagana" in his "The Travels of Marco Polo", but he uses a term with which he was already familiar. Lasagna deserves it's very own post so maybe later, ok?
a with a long history is "laganum" (plural lagana), which in Latin refers to a thin sheet of dough, and gives rise to Italian Lasagna. The Chinese people were eating noodles made of millet as long ago as 2000 BC. This has been suggested as Marco Polo importing pasta from China originated with the Macaroni Journal, published by an association of food industries with the goal of promoting the use of pasta in the United States. Marco Polo describes a food similar to "lagana" in his "The Travels of Marco Polo", but he uses a term with which he was already familiar. Lasagna deserves it's very own post so maybe later, ok?Durum wheat, and thus pasta as it is known today, was introduced by Arabs during their conquest of Sicily in the late 7th century, according to the newsletter of the National Macaroni Manufacturers Association, thus predating Marco Polo's travels to China by about six centuries. In the 1st century BC writings of Horace, were fine sheets of dough which were fried and were an everyday food. Writings in the 2nd century Athenaeus of Naucratis provides a recipe for lagana which he attributes to the 1st century Chrysippus of Tyana: "sheets of dough made of wheat flour and the juice of crushed lettuce, then flavored with spices and deep-fried in oil". An early 5th century cookbook describes a dish called "lagana" that consisted of layers of dough with meat stuffing, a possible ancestor of modern-day Lasagna. But the method of cooking these sheets of dough does not correspond to our modern definition of either a fresh or dry pasta product. The first concrete information concerning pasta products in Italy dates from the thirteenth or fourteenth century.
Okay, enough of the history lesson for today but I thought it bore telling since it clari
fies the origins of pasta and the more I delved into the subject, the more I wanted to find out. Funny how ancient travelers contributed so much to our culinary history, no? I've also read we could thank many ancient travel writers for their contributions to this as well, Thomas Jefferson known as being a man of "enlightening" was a gourmet and inventor (among many other things) and he developed one of the earliest pasta machines! He was also an avid Francophile and brought much of the culture, food and general life to the U.S. from his years abroad.
fies the origins of pasta and the more I delved into the subject, the more I wanted to find out. Funny how ancient travelers contributed so much to our culinary history, no? I've also read we could thank many ancient travel writers for their contributions to this as well, Thomas Jefferson known as being a man of "enlightening" was a gourmet and inventor (among many other things) and he developed one of the earliest pasta machines! He was also an avid Francophile and brought much of the culture, food and general life to the U.S. from his years abroad.So next time you're cooking up some good 'ol Mac N Cheese you might think of the origins of your comfort food not as a staple from your Mom's kitchen but a world wise dish of international connections. N'est-ce pas? So with this in mind I have come to share some "enlightened" versions of our old comfort food that we can all enjoy. A great base that will serve us well indeed, I'm sure you'll agree they bear no resemblance to the boxed version with that funny powdered cheese-thingy you can find at the old A&P, no sir!
Luxurious Four Cheese Macaroni and Cheese.- When only the very best will do and you want serious comfort food!
3 cups whole mi
lk
4 tbl butter
1 cup onion, finely diced
1 bay leaf
1/4 cup all-purpose flour
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Pinch freshly grated nutmeg
1/4 tsp hot sauce, more to taste
1 3/4 cup Gruyère cheese, coarsely grated
2 cups blue cheese, crumbled
1 lb dried penne rigate pasta
1 tbl finely grated lemon zest
2 cups Monterey Jack, cut into 1/2 inch cubes
1/2 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
2 tbl fresh thyme leaves
1 cup Parmigiano Reggiano, freshly grated
3/4 cup fresh breadcrumbs
Heat the oven to 350F. Put a large pot of well-salted water on to boil. Meanwhile, heat the milk in a small saucepan over med-low heat to just below a simmer, stirring often to prevent scorching. Remove from the heat and cover to keep hot. Melt the butter in a pan over med-low heat. Add the onion and bay leaf. Cook, stirring, until the onion starts to soften, about 5 min.
3 cups whole mi
lk4 tbl butter
1 cup onion, finely diced
1 bay leaf
1/4 cup all-purpose flour
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Pinch freshly grated nutmeg
1/4 tsp hot sauce, more to taste
1 3/4 cup Gruyère cheese, coarsely grated
2 cups blue cheese, crumbled
1 lb dried penne rigate pasta
1 tbl finely grated lemon zest
2 cups Monterey Jack, cut into 1/2 inch cubes
1/2 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
2 tbl fresh thyme leaves
1 cup Parmigiano Reggiano, freshly grated
3/4 cup fresh breadcrumbs
Heat the oven to 350F. Put a large pot of well-salted water on to boil. Meanwhile, heat the milk in a small saucepan over med-low heat to just below a simmer, stirring often to prevent scorching. Remove from the heat and cover to keep hot. Melt the butter in a pan over med-low heat. Add the onion and bay leaf. Cook, stirring, until the onion starts to soften, about 5 min.
Add the flour and cook, stirring, for 2 min. Gradually whisk in the hot milk, bring to a simmer, and cook for 10 min, whisking frequently, until thickened and smooth. Season the white sauce with 1 tsp salt, pepper to taste, the nutmeg, and the hot sauce. Remove and discard the bay leaf. Stir in the Gruyère and blue cheese.
Cook the pasta to al dente. Drain and return to the pot. Toss the lemon zest and half of the Monterey Jack into the pasta while it’s still hot; add the cheese sauce and quickly toss to combine. Stir in the parsley and thyme and transfer half of the pasta to a large ca sserole or lasagna pan. Sprinkle with the remaining Monterey Jack and half the Parmigiano; top with the remaining pasta. Sprinkle with the remaining Parmigiano and the breadcrumbs. Bake until bubbly and golden, 50 to 60 min. Let rest for 5 to 10 min before serving.
Cook the pasta to al dente. Drain and return to the pot. Toss the lemon zest and half of the Monterey Jack into the pasta while it’s still hot; add the cheese sauce and quickly toss to combine. Stir in the parsley and thyme and transfer half of the pasta to a large ca sserole or lasagna pan. Sprinkle with the remaining Monterey Jack and half the Parmigiano; top with the remaining pasta. Sprinkle with the remaining Parmigiano and the breadcrumbs. Bake until bubbly and golden, 50 to 60 min. Let rest for 5 to 10 min before serving.
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Wild Mushroom Macaroni and Cheese.- This is not your Mom's Mac n' Cheese.....
1 1/2 cups sliced crimini mushrooms
1 1/2 cups sliced shitake mushrooms
2 tbl oil or bacon fat
1 1/2 tbl sherry vinegar
3 tbl butter
3 tbl flour
3 cup whole milk, warmed
1/2 cup herb chevre, crumbled
1/2 cup sharp cheddar, shredded
1/2 cup parmigiano reggiano, divided in 2
1 tbl fresh thyme leaves
2 tsp fresh rosemary, minced
1 tsp fresh sage, minced
2-3 tbl white truffle oil, depending on how strong you like it (optional but yes, worth it)
1 tsp crushed red pepper flakes
1/2 cup panko
1 box elbow pasta
kosher salt and fresh cracked black pepper
Preheat oven to 400 F. Place a large pot of water over high heat and cover. Place a large pan with 2 tbl oil or lard over med heat. Once the oil is hot, add the mushrooms to the pan and saute for 7-10 min or until the mushrooms are fully cooked and slightly caramelized. T oss or stir occasionally. Season with a pinch of kosher salt and black pepper then deglaze the pan with sherry vinegar. Allow all of the vinegar to cook out, then remove the mushrooms from the pan and set aside.
Add 4 tbl butter to a med-sized pan over med heat. Once all the butter is melted and hot, whisk in 4 tbl flour. Cook the flour, whisking, for about 30 seconds. Add the thyme, rosemary, sage, and red pepper flakes. Continue stirring and allow the herbs to saute for about another 30 seconds. Slowly pour in the milk while whisking continuously, so there are no lumps. Allow the bechamel to come to a simmer and thicken, stirring. While waiting for the sauce to come to a simmer start the pasta. Liberally salt the water. Add the pasta to the water and cook the pasta for a minute or two less than the suggested time on the box. Once the bechamel has reached a simmer, stir in the chevre, cheddar, half the parmigiano, and truffle oil until all the cheese has melted. Turn off the heat and and taste the sauce for seasonings. Season with salt and pepper as necessary. In small mixing bowl, mix together the panko an d remaining parmigiano reggiano. Strain the pasta immediately once finished cooking. In a mixing bowl, toss the pasta, cheese sauce, and mushrooms together. Pour the macaroni and cheese into a deep glass or ceramic loaf pan and sprinkle the panko/parmigiano mixture evenly across the top. Bake in the upper part of the oven for about 15 to 20 min or until the topping is golden and the cheese sauce is bubbly. Serve hot. Enjoy!
1 1/2 cups sliced crimini mushrooms
1 1/2 cups sliced shitake mushrooms
1 1/2 tbl sherry vinegar
3 tbl butter
3 tbl flour
3 cup whole milk, warmed
1/2 cup herb chevre, crumbled
1/2 cup sharp cheddar, shredded
1/2 cup parmigiano reggiano, divided in 2
1 tbl fresh thyme leaves
2 tsp fresh rosemary, minced
1 tsp fresh sage, minced
2-3 tbl white truffle oil, depending on how strong you like it (optional but yes, worth it)
1 tsp crushed red pepper flakes
1/2 cup panko
1 box elbow pasta
kosher salt and fresh cracked black pepper
Preheat oven to 400 F. Place a large pot of water over high heat and cover. Place a large pan with 2 tbl oil or lard over med heat. Once the oil is hot, add the mushrooms to the pan and saute for 7-10 min or until the mushrooms are fully cooked and slightly caramelized. T oss or stir occasionally. Season with a pinch of kosher salt and black pepper then deglaze the pan with sherry vinegar. Allow all of the vinegar to cook out, then remove the mushrooms from the pan and set aside.
Add 4 tbl butter to a med-sized pan over med heat. Once all the butter is melted and hot, whisk in 4 tbl flour. Cook the flour, whisking, for about 30 seconds. Add the thyme, rosemary, sage, and red pepper flakes. Continue stirring and allow the herbs to saute for about another 30 seconds. Slowly pour in the milk while whisking continuously, so there are no lumps. Allow the bechamel to come to a simmer and thicken, stirring. While waiting for the sauce to come to a simmer start the pasta. Liberally salt the water. Add the pasta to the water and cook the pasta for a minute or two less than the suggested time on the box. Once the bechamel has reached a simmer, stir in the chevre, cheddar, half the parmigiano, and truffle oil until all the cheese has melted. Turn off the heat and and taste the sauce for seasonings. Season with salt and pepper as necessary. In small mixing bowl, mix together the panko an d remaining parmigiano reggiano. Strain the pasta immediately once finished cooking. In a mixing bowl, toss the pasta, cheese sauce, and mushrooms together. Pour the macaroni and cheese into a deep glass or ceramic loaf pan and sprinkle the panko/parmigiano mixture evenly across the top. Bake in the upper part of the oven for about 15 to 20 min or until the topping is golden and the cheese sauce is bubbly. Serve hot. Enjoy!
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Mac N Duck.- A sophisticated yet playful take on our old friend, definitely worth the trouble!
Duck Confit (see recipe below)- duck shredded
3 tbl butter
3 tbl flour
3 cup whole milk, warmed
1 cup fontina cheese, shredded (more if needed to your taste)
3 tbl flour
3 cup whole milk, warmed
1 cup fontina cheese, shredded (more if needed to your taste)
salt and fresh ground pepper
grated nutmeg, to your taste
1 large onion, sliced fine
1 tsp fresh parsley, chopped
1 tsp fresh chives, chopped
1 tsp fresh tarragon, chopped
1 lb pasta
Duck confit (this is fabulous! save the fat to fry in, especially french fries!!!!!)
3 tbl salt
4 cloves garlic, smashed
1 shallot, peeled and sliced
6 sprigs thyme
Coarsely ground black pepper
4 duck legs with thighs
4 duck wings, trimmed
About 4 cups duck fat
Sprinkle 1 tbl of salt in the bottom of a dish or plastic container large enough to hold the duck pieces in a single layer. Evenly scatter half the garlic, shallots, and thyme in the container. Arrange the duck, skin-side up, over the salt mixture, then sprinkle with the re maining salt, garlic, shallots, and thyme and a little pepper. Cover and refrigerate for 1-2 days.
Preheat the oven to 225 F. Melt the duck fat in a small saucepan. Brush the salt and seasonings off the duck. Arrange the duck pieces in a single snug layer in a high-sided baking dish or ovenproof saucepan. Pour the melted fat over the duck (the duck pieces should be covered by fat) and place the confit in the oven. Cook the confit slowly at a very slow simmer — just an occasional bubble — until the duck is tender and can be easily pulled from the bone, 2-3 hours. Remove the confit from the oven. Cool and store the duck in the fat. (The confit will keep in the refrigerator for several weeks.)
Note: The duck fat can be strained, cooled and reused.
Add butter to a pan over med heat. Once all the butter is melted and hot, whisk in flour. Cook the flour, whisking, for about 30 seconds. Add the parsley, chives and tarragon. Continue stirring and allow the herbs to saute for about another 30 seconds. Slowly pour in the milk while whisking continuously, so there are no lumps. Allow the bechamel to come to a simmer and thicken, stirring. While waiting for the sauce to come to a simmer start the pasta. Liberally salt the water. Add the pasta to the water and cook the pasta for a minute or two less than the suggested time on the box. Once the bechamel has reached a simmer, stir in the cheese until all the cheese has melted. Turn off the heat and and taste the sauce for seasonings. Season with salt and pepper as necessary. Strain the pasta immediately once finished cooking. In a mixing bowl, toss the pasta and cheese sauce together. Pour the macaroni and cheese into a deep glass or ceramic baking pan and bake in the oven for about 15 to 20 min or until the cheese sauce is bubbly. Meanwhile in a pan with some half butter and oil, saute the onion until caramelized, stirring often.
To serve: Top with the shredded duck and more herbs if desired and the caramelized onions.
NOTE: You could also add a crumb topping if you like, as mentioned above.
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Chipotle Chicken Macaroni.- A lovely way to incorporate some extra flavor into this dish!
1 Chicken, cut up
2 cups tomato sauce
1-3 chipotle peppers, canned
2 tbl cilantro leaves, chopped
2-3 garlic cloves
1/2 onion, in quarters
salt and pepper to taste
1-2 tbl sugar
1 cup Oaxaca or Chihuahua Cheese, shredded
1/2 cup green onions, chopped, green parts too
3 tbl butter
3 tbl flour
3 cup whole milk, warmed
3 tbl flour
3 cup whole milk, warmed
Heat oven to 350 F. Spray a baking sheet with spray or line with aluminum foil and place the chicken with salt and pepper on the sheet. Bake in the oven for about 40-50 min. Allow to cool and then shred.
In the blender, put the tomato sauce, chipotle, garlic, onion and blend until smooth. Start with 1 chipotle pepper, taste and then see if you want the other one, if not that's fine. When smooth, taste and add salt and pepper and sugar, cilantro leaves too and blend to combine. In a pan, put the chicken over med-high heat and then add the chipotle tomato sauce and allow to come to temperature, lower the heat and simmer about 15 min. Add the green onions. Turn off heat.
Add butter t o a pan over med heat. Once all the butter is melted and hot, whisk in flour. Cook the flour, whisking, for about 30 seconds. Add salt and pepper. Continue stirring and allow to cook for about another 2-3 minutes. Slowly pour in the milk while whisking continuously, so there are no lumps. Allow the bechamel to come to a simmer and thicken, stirring. While waiting for the sauce to come to a simmer start the pasta. Liberally salt the water. Add the pasta to the water and cook the pasta for a minute or two less than the suggested time on the box. Once the bechamel has reached a simmer, stir in the cheese until all the cheese has melted. Turn off the heat and and taste the sauce for seasonings. Season with salt and pepper as necessary. Strain the pasta immediately once finished cooking. In a mixing bowl, toss the pasta and cheese sauce together. Add the chicken and some of the sauce (to your taste) and mix to combine. Pour the macaroni and cheese into a deep glass or ceramic baking pan and bake in the oven for about 15 to 20 min or until the cheese sauce is bubbly.
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Korean BBQ Mac N Cheese.- Here is a fusion of both cultures that works!
Recipe for Galbi or Korean BBQ in this blog from May 31, under Oriental foods
-including t he greens on the side dishes
3 tbl butter
3 tbl flour
3 cup whole milk, warmed
3 tbl flour
3 cup whole milk, warmed
salt and pepper to taste
1 cup Monterrey Jack or White Cheddar Cheese, shredded
1 lb pasta
Add butter to a pan over med heat. Once all the butter is melted and hot, whisk in flour. Cook the flour, whisking, for about 30 seconds. Add salt and pepper. Continue stirring and allow to cook for about another 2-3 minutes. Slowly pour in the milk while whisking continuously, so there are no lumps. Allow the bechamel to come to a simmer and thicken, stirring. While waiting for the sauce to come to a simmer start the pasta. Liberally salt the water. Add the pasta to the water and cook the pasta for a minute or two less than the suggested time on the box. Once the bechamel has reached a simmer, stir in the cheese until all the cheese has melted. Turn off the heat and and taste the sauce for seasonings. Season with salt and pepper as necessary. Strain the pasta immediately once finished cooking. In a mixing bowl, toss the pasta and cheese sauce together. Add the galbi, some of the greens and some of the sauce (to your taste) and mix to combine. Pour the macaroni and cheese into a deep glass or ceramic baking pan and bake in the oven for about 15 to 20 min or until the cheese sauce is bubbly.
To serve: Have some greens as toppings and to add crunch.
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And just as an extra, our favorite "Lobster Mac"..... for special occasions. You prepare this just like the others following the steps of making a "roux" (butter, flour, milk sauce), then yo
u add a light Mascarpone Cheese so you don't weigh down the lobster; 1/4 cup of Cognac is added (Yes!) and then some VERY lightly cooked lobster pieces (save some to top off at service). I add chopped garlic, finely chopped onion and fresh Tarragon as well. YUM! Amazing!..... (plus much more doable since you don't need a lobster for each person....) I'm sure you're well aware how many ways you can make this, right? Just pick your cheese and any extras you like, topping or not? and let 'er rip..... You can go from simple down home to full out over the top with no stops in between. So very creative and great! So go ahead and create your own masterpiece! Enjoy......
u add a light Mascarpone Cheese so you don't weigh down the lobster; 1/4 cup of Cognac is added (Yes!) and then some VERY lightly cooked lobster pieces (save some to top off at service). I add chopped garlic, finely chopped onion and fresh Tarragon as well. YUM! Amazing!..... (plus much more doable since you don't need a lobster for each person....) I'm sure you're well aware how many ways you can make this, right? Just pick your cheese and any extras you like, topping or not? and let 'er rip..... You can go from simple down home to full out over the top with no stops in between. So very creative and great! So go ahead and create your own masterpiece! Enjoy......
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